After savoring an exquisite morning sauna session at SATOYAMA TERRACE in Kimitsu, I quietly started the car engine. With a pleasant blend of fulfillment and gentle fatigue, I merged onto the expressway from Kimitsu IC and headed toward Makuhari. The final destination of my Chiba sauna journey was drawing near: Mainichi Sauna Tokyo Makuhari. Mainichi Sauna Tokyo is the first location of a new brand born from a collaboration between Mainichi Sauna — the legendary wood-fired sauna destination in Gunma — and Sauna Tokyo, the urban oasis in Akasaka, Tokyo. Opening in May 2026 in Makuhari, Chiba, it is a sauna-focused facility featuring five types of saunas, three types of cold plunge baths, and natural groundwater. It had been generating buzz among sauna enthusiasts well before its opening, and for me, it was an absolute must on this Chiba trip. I parked in the spacious lot, and the building's exterior — which I had seen in photos so many times — came into view. Suppressing my excitement, I stepped inside, checked in, and listened to the staff's courteous explanation of how the facility worked. I heard them out, but my mind was already in the sauna room. I stripped off my clothes at lightning speed in the clean and roomy changing area, and pushed open the door to the main bath. The moment I opened that door, another world greeted me. What struck me most was the atmosphere. Almost no electric lighting was used; instead, countless candles were placed along the brick walls of the bathing area. Their soft glow illuminated the space, and the texture of the brick added a warmth that was absolutely irresistible. Just seeing that scene made the journey here worthwhile. On top of that, the candles released a wonderful fragrance, enveloping the entire bathhouse in an aromatic scent. I had experienced the same kind of fragrance at Sauna Tokyo in Akasaka before, so they're likely using the same thing. The main bath is laid out over two floors: the first floor is the warm bathing area, and the second floor is the sauna area. I started by exploring the first floor. The star of the show down there is the carbonated spring, flanked by jacuzzis and wash stations. A large tree stands at the center of the carbonated spring, elevating what would otherwise be a simple bath into something special. The tub is also lit with blue lighting, giving it a mysteriously enchanting atmosphere. After warming my body there thoroughly, I made my way up to the second floor — the main event. Climbing the stairs and stepping onto the second floor, I was immediately enveloped in an intense energy — the energy of men locked in battle with the heat. It was on a completely different level from the relaxed world of the first floor. The aura of those who kept pushing themselves through scorching saunas had condensed into something palpable in the air. Up here there are five types of saunas, three types of cold plunge baths, and a vast relaxation area where you can also order drinks. The fact that they've added a drinks service to what could just be a resting area is another touch of quality I appreciated. After scouting the facilities, it was time to start my sauna sessions. Since this was already my second facility of the day, I was well warmed up. Which sauna to try first? It had to be the wood-fired sauna — the signature feature of this place. Inside, a custom-built, enormous wood-burning stove radiated intense heat. In the mandatory silent darkness, a fierce flame danced and flickered. It was the only source of light in the room. I took a seat where I could face the fire head-on. Staring into those flames in the dark, I felt something like a powerful energy welling up inside me. There's no doubt that this perfectly crafted atmosphere generates an extraordinary sense of immersion. I gathered my thoughts as if in meditation, doing nothing but feeling the heat. Gradually, the heat reached its limit. Time for the cold plunge. Mainichi Sauna Tokyo Makuhari uses natural groundwater in its cold plunge baths. Three options are available: 15°C, 22°C, and a flowing natural drinking-water bath (around 20°C). After being scorched by the intense heat of the wood-fired sauna, nothing but the coldest plunge would do. The moment I submerged my entire body in the 15°C bath, an overwhelming rush of refreshment surged through me. The bath is also generously sized, so I could soak as long as I liked without worrying about the crowd. From there I moved to the relaxation area. More than 30 chairs were arranged in neat rows, and there were also plenty of spots where you could lie down. Men completely undone by the exceptional sauna and cold plunge lay there with expressions of pure bliss, having drifted off to somewhere else entirely. What a picture of happiness. And I was about to become part of that picture. I surrendered my full weight to a chair, took deep breath after deep breath, and soon my field of vision began to sway — and the exquisite totonou arrived. The noise in my head faded away, leaving everything clear. This is why I can't quit sauna. How long I stayed in the rest area didn't matter. Time doesn't exist here, and the only rule is to enjoy the sauna however you please. For my second set, I headed to Kero Joki Ranbu. The spacious sauna room, which can hold more than 20 people, is lavished with kelo wood — often called the jewel of timber. I took a deep breath expecting its rich fragrance, but since the place had only just opened, the deep, distinctive scent of kelo was still faint. What was anything but faint, though, was the heat. It felt like it had to be well over 100°C, but when I glanced at the thermometer it read 90°C. The fact that the reading and how it actually feels don't always match is one of the fascinating things about sauna. The stove was an iki pro model — a shape I'd never seen before — sitting there like a throne. Presumably it's the next level up from the standard iki stove, and its exceptional performance must be what drives that sensation of extreme heat. Music was playing in the sauna room, and after a while it switched to something upbeat, the lighting changed, and the automatic löyly began. An already-scorching room was taken to a whole new level of finish by that löyly. I pushed my body to its limit and headed back to the cold plunge. I sank into the 15°C bath and spent some time in the rest area in a state of pure blankness. A small aside here: just as I noticed at Sauna Tokyo in Akasaka, the staff at this facility are truly remarkable. Multiple staff members are on the floor of the main bath at all times, meticulously tending to sauna mats, checking the saunas and cold plunge baths, and keeping everything clean. This means guests can always use the facility in the most comfortable possible condition. Take sauna mats, for example — at many places, used mats are left scattered around indefinitely, but here they're constantly maintained, so you can always pick up a fresh, clean one. The wood-fired sauna is monitored closely with checks on the state of the firewood, and the chairs in the relaxation area are rinsed with water and cleaned after each guest gets up. The facility also operates on a silent bathing policy, and if a guest is breaking that rule, the staff will politely step in. Behind the quality experience being delivered here lies the tireless dedication of the staff — something that should never be overlooked. For my third set, I entered Meiso Magma Joki. This sauna is a semi-private steam sauna designed for meditative immersion in steam and heat. It runs on a dual system of a steam stove and a hidden Bona stove built into the wall, with lava stones lining the walls. Each seat is separated by a partition, blocking out sight and sound so you can sink entirely into yourself. The temperature is on the milder side, so after relaxing and warming up for a while, I moved directly to the wood-fired sauna and stacked the two sessions back to back. The shift from gentle warmth to the fierce heat of open fire — that contrast flipped a switch inside me in an instant. Hitting my limit, I burst out of the sauna, and for my third round of cold plunges I went from the 15°C bath directly to the flowing natural groundwater bath. Natural water pours down from the ceiling like a waterfall, and this dynamic setup brought to mind the sacred Sauna Shikiji in Shizuoka. I cupped some of that water in my hands and drank it all in one go. Stepping into a cold plunge and drinking the natural water being poured into it — that's something I absolutely love. I never imagined I'd have such a wild, primal experience here in the middle of urban Makuhari. What a stroke of luck. Now, my time at Mainichi Sauna Tokyo Makuhari was entering its final stretch. I decided to make the fourth set my last. Which sauna to finish with? Naturally, it had to be the wood-fired sauna — the one that had moved me most. I gazed at the fiercely burning flames in the darkness, let a powerful energy build up inside me, then finished my body off in the exceptional natural groundwater plunge bath. A perfect sauna experience, complete. Well done, Mainichi Sauna Tokyo.

After leaving the facility, I sat down for lunch at the yakiniku restaurant next door and turned my thoughts to the rest of the journey. Nothing satisfies a man's stomach and spirit quite like grilled meat after a sauna. Chewing through cuts of beef, I considered where to stay that night. The truth is I hadn't decided anything yet. All I knew for certain was that there were two places in Yokohama I absolutely had to visit. First things first: secure a base. Being a Sunday, hotel prices were reasonable. A few taps on my phone and I had an APA Hotel in Minato Mirai booked in no time. I was about to shift my operations from Chiba to Yokohama, and tonight's plan was wonderfully indulgent: sauna right in the heart of Yokohama Chinatown, followed by Chinese food on the way out. You might wonder whether it's even possible to enjoy a sauna in the middle of Yokohama Chinatown. It is. The place is called HARE-TABI SAUNA & INN YOKOHAMA. Heart swelling with anticipation for a new encounter in Yokohama, I swallowed the last of my meat and headed to the car. The journey was far from over.