You can tell to some degree, the moment you step through the curtain of an establishment, whether your visit will be a good one.
For me, it comes down to the atmosphere the instant I walk in — the scent in the air, the warmth of the staff, the cleanliness of the space, the kind of guests around me. From these cues, I form a rough prediction of whether I'm in for a great experience. That said, for every refined establishment that lives up to expectations, there have been just as many times I've been stopped dead in my tracks the moment I walked in. Unfortunately, this visit fell into the latter category.
After a morning sauna session and some errands in Kyoto, I drove out to Ibaraki City in Osaka Prefecture. I'd passed through by train before, but this was my first time actually setting foot in the city — though since I was driving, there wasn't much sightseeing involved. My destination, Saido Natural Hot Spring Sumire no Yu, was a place I'd come across during a recent research session. I was genuinely looking forward to it — a facility promising free-flowing natural hot springs and a löyly sauna. That said, I've learned not to count on things going exactly as planned, so I always have a backup destination ready just in case.
I parked and headed inside. The moment I stepped through the door, an unpleasant smell hit me. The shoe lockers were to the right of the entrance, and the whole area carried a distinct foot odor. Even near the reception desk, there was a faint whiff of it. I stood there for five full seconds, weighing my options: press on, or turn back? Experience has taught me that when something feels off the moment you walk in, the visit rarely turns out ideal. But I'd come all this way, and I wanted at least the bath and sauna. In the end, I checked in and made my way to the main bathing area.
Since I'd already done a sauna session that morning, I took a quick shower and headed straight to the outdoor bath. The main draw was the free-flowing natural hot spring, said to rise from 1,000 meters underground. I sank into the golden-hued water — slightly on the cooler side — and felt a deep sense of relaxation wash over me. Soaking in a quality natural spring, you can feel the tension slowly leave your body. At the same time, a gentle warmth radiates from somewhere deep inside. The longer I stayed, the better I felt. Japan has a long tradition of therapeutic bathing, and there's no doubt that hot springs have a genuine restorative effect on the body. To enjoy a free-flowing natural spring in the middle of a city like Osaka — that felt genuinely special.
After thoroughly revitalizing in the hot spring, I made my way to the sauna room. The moment I stepped in, the air felt dry. Not enough humidity. Before long, the automatic löyly service kicked in. Would that fix things? I hoped so — but the water volume was simply too low, producing only a weak puff of steam that barely moved the needle on humidity. What a waste. A little more water, a little more steam, and this would easily be a great sauna.
After sweating it out, it was time for the cold plunge bath. The walls were lined with binchotan charcoal, with water trickling down from it — a nice touch. I submerged up to my shoulders and found the temperature a perfect 16°C. I'd been underwhelmed by the sauna's condition, but this cold plunge was genuinely refreshing. The only caveat: it fits maybe three people, so there could be a wait during busy hours.
I stepped out, took some time to cool down in the fresh air, but given the sauna's setup, I had no desire to push through another set. On a sauna journey, the most important thing is to trust your gut and listen to your body. I called it cleanly — one set, and I was done at this facility.