Visiting multiple hot springs in one area—this is "soto-yu meguri."
It's a tradition of not only enjoying the indoor baths of inns but also exploring the public baths, or "soto-yu," scattered throughout hot spring towns. This is a unique culture cultivated by Japan's onsen destinations.
Soto-yu meguri is more than just bathing. It's about walking through the hot spring town, enjoying various spring qualities, and feeling the local history. It's a comprehensive onsen experience.
What is Soto-yu?
Soto-yu refers to public baths outside the inns, as opposed to "uchiyu," the indoor baths within inns.
Inns have their own onsen, known as uchiyu. In contrast, soto-yu are public baths located in the hot spring town. This distinction shapes the characteristics of Japan's onsen areas.
The origin of soto-yu is old. During the Edo period, communal baths existed in hot spring areas, used daily by locals and visited by onsen travelers. These communal baths are the prototype of soto-yu.
After the Meiji era, as onsen inns developed, more inns began to have uchiyu. However, the culture of soto-yu did not disappear. Instead, a new way to enjoy onsen emerged, combining both uchiyu and soto-yu.
The Holy Land of Soto-yu Meguri: Kinosaki Onsen
When it comes to soto-yu meguri, Kinosaki Onsen is the place to be.
Located in Toyooka City, Hyogo Prefecture, Kinosaki Onsen boasts seven soto-yu, each with its own unique atmosphere and benefits, known as the "Seven Bath Tour."
Satono-yu, Jizo-yu, Yanagi-yu, Ichino-yu, Goshono-yu, Mandara-yu, and Kono-yu—these seven soto-yu create the charm of Kinosaki Onsen.
At Kinosaki Onsen, guests receive a "Yumeguri Tegata," which allows them to enter all seven soto-yu for free. Wearing a yukata and geta, guests stroll from one soto-yu to another. This is the quintessential way to spend time at Kinosaki Onsen.
The design of the hot spring town, centered around soto-yu meguri, makes Kinosaki Onsen special. The entire town functions like a giant onsen facility.
The Yumeguri Tegata System
The "Yumeguri Tegata" promotes soto-yu meguri.
With one tegata, you can enter multiple soto-yu. The cost is about 1,000 to 1,500 yen, much cheaper than paying individual entrance fees. This economic benefit encourages soto-yu meguri.
The Yumeguri Tegata is also a tourism strategy for hot spring towns. Carrying the tegata naturally leads visitors to walk around the town, stopping by shops, buying food, and purchasing souvenirs, thus revitalizing the entire hot spring town.
Many onsen areas have adopted this Yumeguri Tegata system. Nozawa Onsen, Shibu Onsen, and Kurokawa Onsen each issue their own unique Yumeguri Tegata.
Enjoying Different Spring Qualities
The true pleasure of soto-yu meguri lies in experiencing various spring qualities.
Even within the same onsen area, spring qualities can differ by location. Multiple sources exist, each with different components. By engaging in soto-yu meguri, you can experience these differences firsthand.
The seven soto-yu of Kinosaki Onsen also have subtly different spring qualities. While sodium-calcium chloride springs are the base, temperatures and component concentrations vary. You can feel these differences when you bathe.
Being mindful of these differences while bathing enhances the soto-yu meguri experience. It's not just about "entering a hot spring," but "savoring the differences." This awareness deepens the onsen experience.
Enjoying Differences in Architecture and Atmosphere
Each soto-yu has a different building style.
From historic wooden structures to modern designs and retro bathhouse styles, each soto-yu has its own architectural style. This diversity keeps soto-yu meguri interesting.
The interiors also vary. Rock baths, cypress baths, tiled baths; the shape of the tubs, ceiling height, and lighting brightness—all differ. No two soto-yu are the same.
These differences in architecture and atmosphere make soto-yu meguri a cultural experience. It's not just bathing but also architectural appreciation and spatial experience, offering a multi-layered enjoyment.
The Exercise Benefit of Walking Through the Hot Spring Town
Soto-yu meguri inevitably involves walking.
Soto-yu are scattered throughout the hot spring town. It takes about 5 to 10 minutes to walk from one soto-yu to the next, covering quite a distance.
This act of "walking" provides health benefits. After bathing, a short walk cools the body, and then you warm up again in the next onsen. This combination of alternating hot and cold baths and exercise promotes circulation and enhances health benefits.
Traditional onsen therapy methods also recommend combining bathing and walking. Soto-yu meguri naturally incorporates this tradition.
The Ideal Order for Soto-yu Meguri
There is an ideal order for soto-yu meguri.
Start with lower-temperature onsen to acclimate your body. Jumping into a hot onsen right away can be taxing. Begin with a lukewarm onsen and gradually move to hotter ones.
Next, save the stronger spring qualities for later. Repeated exposure to strong spring qualities can tire the body. Start with gentle springs and finish with stronger ones.
Local regulars know this order and have the wisdom for effective soto-yu meguri. You can ask at the tourist information center for recommended orders.
How Many Baths Can You Enter in a Day?
A common question about soto-yu meguri is how many times you can bathe in a day.
For a healthy adult, 3 to 4 baths a day is appropriate. More than that can be tiring. Onsen isn't about the quantity of time or frequency.
Even with a Yumeguri Tegata, there's no need to conquer all soto-yu in one day. Enjoy at your own pace without overdoing it. This is the essence of soto-yu meguri.
Many onsen areas set the Yumeguri Tegata's validity period longer, such as one or two nights. You can leisurely visit soto-yu during this time without rushing.
What to Bring for Soto-yu Meguri
Surprisingly, you don't need much for soto-yu meguri.
A single towel is enough, which you can borrow from your inn. Head to the soto-yu in a yukata and geta, keeping your belongings minimal. This lightness is part of the charm of soto-yu meguri.
However, don't forget the Yumeguri Tegata, as you can't enter without it. Carry it in your yukata pocket. Having some coins is also handy for locker fees or buying snacks on the way back.
Interacting with Locals
Soto-yu are also used by locals.
They're not exclusive to tourists but are daily bathing facilities for local residents. Early morning and late evening, when tourists are few, you'll find many local regulars.
Conversations may naturally start in the changing room or bath. "Where are you from?" "Is this your first time?" These simple exchanges can become memorable parts of your trip.
Locals might also recommend soto-yu to visit next. "You should go there next," "It's less crowded at that time." Such local insights enrich the soto-yu meguri experience.
Pay Attention to Soto-yu Opening Hours
Soto-yu have specific opening hours.
Many operate from around 7 AM to 11 PM. However, some have regular closing days, often on specific weekdays.
Additionally, be aware of cleaning times. Some soto-yu may be closed for a few hours in the afternoon for cleaning. It's important to check opening hours in advance and plan your soto-yu meguri accordingly.
In Kinosaki Onsen, each soto-yu has different opening hours. Some open early in the morning, others stay open late at night. You can enjoy soto-yu meguri all day by taking advantage of these differences.
Tips to Avoid Crowds
Popular soto-yu can get crowded.
Especially from evening to night, when tourists bathe before dinner. During this time, all soto-yu are busy. If you want a leisurely bath, avoid these hours.
The best times are early morning and late night. From 6 to 7 AM or after 10 PM, there are fewer tourists. You can enjoy a quiet soto-yu with local regulars.
Visiting on weekdays is also an effective way to avoid crowds. Weekends are packed with tourists, but weekdays are relatively quiet. If possible, plan your onsen trip during the week.
Soto-yu Meguri Stamp Rally
Many onsen areas conduct soto-yu meguri stamp rallies.
Each soto-yu has a stamp, and you collect them on a special card. Completing all stamps earns you a souvenir. This playful element makes soto-yu meguri fun.
Stamp rallies are especially popular with families. For children, collecting stamps becomes the goal, keeping them entertained during soto-yu meguri. Even kids uninterested in onsen enjoy stamp collecting.
The completed card makes a great keepsake. Take it home and display it as a travel memory. It also adds to the excitement for your next visit.
Combining Soto-yu Meguri with Dining
Enjoy meals between soto-yu visits.
Hot spring towns have many places for street food. Onsen manju, dango, soft serve ice cream—enjoy these treats as you head to the next soto-yu. This combination creates an exquisite onsen experience.
A beer after a bath is also exceptional. Visit a nearby izakaya and enjoy local sake. This is another pleasure of soto-yu meguri.
Balancing meals and baths is important. Entering an onsen on a full stomach can make you feel unwell. Alternate light snacks with soto-yu visits. This pacing determines the success of soto-yu meguri.
The Charm of Nighttime Soto-yu Meguri
Nighttime soto-yu meguri offers a different charm from the day.
The hot spring town is lit up, creating a magical atmosphere. Walking in a yukata on the illuminated stone paths is the essence of nighttime soto-yu meguri.
Nighttime soto-yu is peaceful. The daytime hustle seems like a lie, and the atmosphere becomes calm. Soaking in the onsen slowly, you unwind from the day's fatigue. This time feels most luxurious.
The Refreshing Experience of Morning Soto-yu Meguri
Morning soto-yu meguri is also a wonderful experience.
Visit soto-yu early in the morning when there are few tourists. The air is clear, and the town is quiet. The refreshing feeling of bathing in this serenity is incomparable.
A morning bath energizes your day. Warming your body in the onsen improves circulation. Starting your day in this state boosts performance. Morning soto-yu meguri is also excellent as a health habit.
Soto-yu Meguri as a Comprehensive Hot Spring Experience
Soto-yu meguri is more than just bathing.
Walking through the hot spring town, observing architecture, dining, and interacting with locals—it's a comprehensive hot spring journey that encompasses all aspects of the onsen area.
Staying in an inn and only using the uchiyu is one way to enjoy onsen. However, soto-yu meguri allows for a deeper understanding of the hot spring area's charm. You enjoy the onsen town as a "whole."
Soto-yu meguri is the epitome of Japanese onsen culture. The tradition of communal baths from the Edo period, the unique space of hot spring towns, the custom of strolling in yukata—all these elements combine for a uniquely Japanese onsen experience.
Without experiencing soto-yu meguri, one cannot truly speak of Japanese onsen. With a Yumeguri Tegata in hand, dressed in a yukata, walk through the hot spring town. There lies the essence of Japanese onsen culture.
