「Hakusanyu Rokujo Store」 Experience Story

I parked my car in a nearby lot and walked to the entrance. The building exudes history with its traditional facade. The sign proudly displaying "Natural Famous Water" clearly reflects their confidence in water quality. I wonder what kind of underground water veins flow beneath this area. Someday when I build my own sauna, I'd love to have a flowing groundwater cold bath like this. Lost in such thoughts, I opened the entrance door. After storing my shoes in the locker and paying the entrance fee at reception, I was grateful to learn they offer towel rentals—perfect for someone traveling light like me. The bathhouse was already bustling with people, but the space was impressively large with multiple luxurious baths using their famous water. What caught my eye immediately was the cold bath. Two lion-head spouts were shooting out water with tremendous force. I watched someone in the cold bath cupping the water in their hands and drinking it. Could there be any greater luxury? I was dying to jump into that cold bath immediately, but proper etiquette demanded I cleanse myself first. Since I'd already had a morning bath at "SPA&HOTEL Suishun Matsuiyamate," I quickly rinsed off with hot water and headed to the sauna. Entering the sauna room, I was immediately enveloped in intense heat. The two-tiered setup had bright red mats laid out. It was nearly full, but I managed to snag a spot on the upper tier at the end. Looking around, most appeared to be local regulars. One man had tattoos covering his upper body, another had full-body tattoos (everywhere except his face). I felt a slight chill of fear, but they weren't acting intimidating—just sitting with eyes closed, quietly sweating. It was actually quite a striking scene. The sauna used infrared electric heaters set above 100°C, but the humidity was well-managed, making it comfortable to sweat. I meditated and sweated for a while until I reached my limit and decided to head for the cold bath. When I entered the cold bath, there was no one else there. Without hesitation, I positioned myself directly under the lion spout and let the flowing groundwater cascade over my head. The temperature was around 18°C—perfect for extended soaking. The water quality was incredibly smooth and mellow; despite being a cold bath, it provided a uniquely relaxing sensation that only natural water can offer. Since no one else came for a while, I enjoyed about a minute of waterfall meditation before drinking some of the flowing water and heading out for air bathing. "Hakusanyu Rokujo Store" may be a public bath, but it has excellent outdoor relaxation space. I reclined in a chair and gazed up at Kyoto's sky. The weather had turned autumnal, and the cool breeze felt wonderful against my skin. The refreshing sensation and smooth texture unique to groundwater cold baths made me whisper, "This is it. This is exactly what I've been seeking." Next to me was a man who seemed to be on a similar sauna journey, but he'd been in another world for quite some time, completely unconscious. That's the kind of power this cold bath possesses. Heading into my second sauna set, both tattooed men were still there. They sat with fierce expressions, arms crossed, sweat pouring down like waterfalls. They seemed to be using the sauna as some form of training, surrounded by an otherworldly aura. I feared for my life if we made eye contact, so I avoided looking their way and focused on the TV instead. A Major League Baseball game was broadcasting—the Los Angeles Dodgers with Kershaw pitching. It appeared to be his final home start before retirement, and the crowd was going wild. Watching the broadcast, I worked up a great sweat while my heart rate climbed steadily. Approaching my limit, I decided to exit the sauna. The two tattooed men had disappeared. After rinsing off, I headed to the cold bath to find two people already there—the tattooed duo. They had claimed both ends of the cold bath, leaving the center perfectly open. Did I have to enter there? I considered returning to the sauna to wait for better timing, but as a professional saunaer, disrupting my rhythm for such trivial reasons would be unforgivable. Without making eye contact, I entered the center between the two tattooed men. Nobody's watching you anyway. The double punch of refreshment and tension created a sensation I'd never experienced before. My body rejoiced in the high-quality water, but mentally I felt something taut and strained. I wished they'd leave soon. How long were they planning to stay? Just as I thought their extended sauna session would require equally long cooling time, another customer arrived. Since the two showed no signs of leaving, I cupped water from the spout directly above the upper-body tattooed man, drank it down, and decided to exit first. Having thoroughly enjoyed the excellent water quality and unable to endure the tension from the tattooed men any longer, I decided to end my morning sauna session after just two sets.

After leaving "Hakusanyu Rokujo Store," I wandered the streets looking for a lunch spot. Ideally, I wanted a traditional set meal restaurant. After walking through several alleys and reaching a main street, I spotted a place called "Tatsu-ya"—an izakaya that serves lunch during the day. They offered reasonably priced, delicious-looking set meals, and I could see counter seating from outside, so I decided to eat there. I took a seat at the counter and perused the menu. Post-sauna favorites like oil-drizzled chicken and eel bowls lined the options. I settled on the grilled pork shoulder loin teriyaki set meal—the word "teriyaki" was irresistible after my sauna session. When the food arrived, the portion was substantial. How could they serve this for under 1,000 yen? The cost performance was incredible. As for taste—absolutely exquisite. I devoured everything in one go, feeling my sauna-depleted energy being replenished. Walking through Kyoto's alleys, you encounter countless privately-owned establishments. While I visited "Tatsu-ya" this time, there are undoubtedly many other delicious spots waiting to be discovered. Perhaps next time I'll combine a Kyoto public bath sauna tour with a gourmet adventure, hunting for the perfect post-sauna meals. The thought alone fills me with excitement. With my stomach satisfied, it was time to decide on the next destination. Since it was Saturday, I could stay another night. Maybe I'd find a café to leisurely sip coffee while planning my next move. Returning near the parking area, I noticed a sign for "Cafe World." The interior had a retro atmosphere and seemed to specialize in coffee beans from around the world. Fortunately, it wasn't crowded. I entered and ordered a blend coffee and hotcakes. Sipping coffee while checking my location on Google Maps, I was initially considering another night in Kyoto when "that place" caught my eye. Since I was already in Kyoto, "that place" was just a two-hour drive away. That place was Gifu Prefecture. Two weeks ago, during my sauna pilgrimage, I'd been moved to tears by what I considered Japan's finest sauna—"Ogaki Sauna" in Gifu Prefecture. Additionally, about 30 minutes by car from Ogaki in Kakamigahara City, there's "Megumi-no-Yu," an exceptional super sento. I wanted to visit both facilities. No—I would visit them. Solo sauna travel has no barriers. When you want to go somewhere, you can go immediately. This level of freedom becomes addictive, though it does make traveling with others more difficult. Savoring my coffee, I solidified my plans. Tonight I'd stay in affordable Kakamigahara City and indulge at "Megumi-no-Yu." Tomorrow morning, I'd hit Ogaki Sauna, grab lunch, maybe take a nap, then head home. A perfect plan. With that decided, I needed to book a hotel. Fortunately, a business hotel in Kakamigahara had availability, so I made an immediate reservation. With lodging secured, nothing else remained but to go to "Megumi-no-Yu," enjoy an incredibly relaxing sauna, eat delicious food, and sleep. Confident that today would be another fantastic day, I departed for Gifu Prefecture. To be continued.