An impulsive trip that started on a whim is continuing just as impulsively. This morning, after finishing three sets while looking out at the sea at SPA Sen Taihei no Yu at the foot of the Akashi Strait, I decided to head to Wakayama. Shirahama is perfect for my theme of baths with a sea view. From Tarumi I drove straight to Wakayama. It was about a 2.5-hour drive, but my excitement made it feel much shorter. It had been since last summer that I visited Wakayama, and seeing the Kii Peninsula scenery again filled me with a sense of having returned. I checked in at the hotel, rested briefly, and then made my way to tonight's destination, Nanki Shirahama Onsen Hotel Kawakyu. The moment I arrived, I was struck speechless. It was a palace. No, a castle. Or perhaps a monument. In any case, the scale of the architecture before me was extraordinary. I had known beforehand that it was built at the height of the bubble economy in 1991 at a total cost of 40 billion yen, but the real thing surpassed any imagination. The roof uses 470,000 glazed tiles the same as those on the Forbidden City, and the exterior walls combine 73 varieties of British bricks totaling 1,400,000 pieces. Before my mind could process those numbers, my body reacted. I stood stunned for a while, then decided to walk around the building. As I walked, I realized the hotel sits in a location surrounded by sea. From the grounds I could take in a panoramic view of Shirahama's sea. If you stayed here, you could probably have this incredible view all to yourself from your room. I seriously thought that someday I want to stay here. Inside the hotel, the interior overwhelmed me next. The entrance dome is covered with 190,000 sheets of 22.5-karat gold leaf, and each column is faux marble with one reportedly costing around 100 million yen. The floors are Roman mosaic tiles hand-set by Italian artisans. It felt less like a hotel and more like an art museum; in fact, works by Dalí and Chagall are displayed in the Kawakyu Museum. It was a palace straight out of a movie, a space that made me want to stay in such a hotel at least once in my life. At reception I requested access to the Royal Spa and paid the fee. Hotel Kawakyu has two large bathing areas: the Royal Spa on the second floor and Yukyu no Mori on the first floor. That afternoon, men could use the second-floor Royal Spa. Thus began a truly royal experience. The moment I stepped in, even the changing area exuded luxury. The floor heating was pleasantly warm, clearly in a different class from a typical public bath. As I headed toward the large bath, there was a washing area first, and beyond that the indoor bath came into view. The space was unified by dark lighting and featured a lounge area arranged like a hearth. Various drinks were available, creating a design where you can not only bathe but also enjoy beverages and social time. The highlight, however, was the open-air bath. Beyond the tub filled with the famous Shirahama Onsen water, a panoramic view of Shirahama unfurled. It was late afternoon, and the sea view was breathtaking. Watching that scenery, I felt proud of myself for deciding to come here today. I sank into the outdoor Shirahama Onsen. The sensation of the onsen was extraordinary. The way my body warmed was intense, and I could feel the mineral-rich water soaking into me. As expected of the famed Shirahama Onsen. It reminded me of my trip to Arima Onsen, when I too was overwhelmed by the power of the hot spring. The scenery was so beautiful that I didn't want to leave. I probably spent about 30 minutes cycling between soaking in the onsen, stepping out to admire the view, and slowly getting back in. It was soon time for the sauna. Set one. I entered a sauna that could fit about ten people and was greeted by an aromatic scent. The room was set up for self löyly, with modern lighting that maintained the room's atmosphere. Something like rock salt was embedded in the walls, and it felt like it helped the body warm more efficiently. Since there was no one else there, I performed self löyly as soon as my body was warm enough. Steam wrapped around me and sweat began pouring out. The cold plunge bath fits about four people and was at an ideal temperature of around 16℃. After thoroughly cooling my whole body, I headed to the outdoor cool-down area. Chairs were arranged perfectly in a space with a full view of the Shirahama sea. They were designed so you could lie back, with adjustable back angles. What surprised me further was that bath towels were placed next to each chair. You could dry off before enjoying the outdoor cool-down. The level of hospitality was truly impressive. I lay back in a chair and gazed at the sea; the sun seemed a little lower than before. How long did I stay like that? I completely lost track of time. I estimate that about an hour had passed from the time I entered the large bath until I started the second set. Set two followed the same rhythm: sauna, cold plunge bath, then outdoor cool-down while admiring the beautiful outdoor view. The sun continued to sink. Staring blankly at the sea, clearing my mind, and soaking in the onsen made me feel naturally positive. Just looking at such beautiful nature left me speechless and allowed for a time when I didn't have to think about anything. By the time I finished the third set, the sun had largely set and night was approaching.

An impulsive trip that started on a whim is continuing just as impulsively. This morning, after finishing three sets while looking out at the sea at SPA Sen Taihei no Yu at the foot of the Akashi Strait, I decided to head to Wakayama. Shirahama is perfect for my theme of baths with a sea view. From Tarumi I drove straight to Wakayama. It was about a 2.5-hour drive, but my excitement made it feel much shorter. It had been since last summer that I visited Wakayama, and seeing the Kii Peninsula scenery again filled me with a sense of having returned. I checked in at the hotel, rested briefly, and then made my way to tonight's destination, Nanki Shirahama Onsen Hotel Kawakyu. The moment I arrived, I was struck speechless. It was a palace. No, a castle. Or perhaps a monument. In any case, the scale of the architecture before me was extraordinary. I had known beforehand that it was built at the height of the bubble economy in 1991 at a total cost of 40 billion yen, but the real thing surpassed any imagination. The roof uses 470,000 glazed tiles the same as those on the Forbidden City, and the exterior walls combine 73 varieties of British bricks totaling 1,400,000 pieces. Before my mind could process those numbers, my body reacted. I stood stunned for a while, then decided to walk around the building. As I walked, I realized the hotel sits in a location surrounded by sea. From the grounds I could take in a panoramic view of Shirahama's sea. If you stayed here, you could probably have this incredible view all to yourself from your room. I seriously thought that someday I want to stay here. Inside the hotel, the interior overwhelmed me next. The entrance dome is covered with 190,000 sheets of 22.5-karat gold leaf, and each column is faux marble with one reportedly costing around 100 million yen. The floors are Roman mosaic tiles hand-set by Italian artisans. It felt less like a hotel and more like an art museum; in fact, works by Dalí and Chagall are displayed in the Kawakyu Museum. It was a palace straight out of a movie, a space that made me want to stay in such a hotel at least once in my life. At reception I requested access to the Royal Spa and paid the fee. Hotel Kawakyu has two large bathing areas: the Royal Spa on the second floor and Yukyu no Mori on the first floor. That afternoon, men could use the second-floor Royal Spa. Thus began a truly royal experience. The moment I stepped in, even the changing area exuded luxury. The floor heating was pleasantly warm, clearly in a different class from a typical public bath. As I headed toward the large bath, there was a washing area first, and beyond that the indoor bath came into view. The space was unified by dark lighting and featured a lounge area arranged like a hearth. Various drinks were available, creating a design where you can not only bathe but also enjoy beverages and social time. The highlight, however, was the open-air bath. Beyond the tub filled with the famous Shirahama Onsen water, a panoramic view of Shirahama unfurled. It was late afternoon, and the sea view was breathtaking. Watching that scenery, I felt proud of myself for deciding to come here today. I sank into the outdoor Shirahama Onsen. The sensation of the onsen was extraordinary. The way my body warmed was intense, and I could feel the mineral-rich water soaking into me. As expected of the famed Shirahama Onsen. It reminded me of my trip to Arima Onsen, when I too was overwhelmed by the power of the hot spring. The scenery was so beautiful that I didn't want to leave. I probably spent about 30 minutes cycling between soaking in the onsen, stepping out to admire the view, and slowly getting back in. It was soon time for the sauna. Set one. I entered a sauna that could fit about ten people and was greeted by an aromatic scent. The room was set up for self löyly, with modern lighting that maintained the room's atmosphere. Something like rock salt was embedded in the walls, and it felt like it helped the body warm more efficiently. Since there was no one else there, I performed self löyly as soon as my body was warm enough. Steam wrapped around me and sweat began pouring out. The cold plunge bath fits about four people and was at an ideal temperature of around 16℃. After thoroughly cooling my whole body, I headed to the outdoor cool-down area. Chairs were arranged perfectly in a space with a full view of the Shirahama sea. They were designed so you could lie back, with adjustable back angles. What surprised me further was that bath towels were placed next to each chair. You could dry off before enjoying the outdoor cool-down. The level of hospitality was truly impressive. I lay back in a chair and gazed at the sea; the sun seemed a little lower than before. How long did I stay like that? I completely lost track of time. I estimate that about an hour had passed from the time I entered the large bath until I started the second set. Set two followed the same rhythm: sauna, cold plunge bath, then outdoor cool-down while admiring the beautiful outdoor view. The sun continued to sink. Staring blankly at the sea, clearing my mind, and soaking in the onsen made me feel naturally positive. Just looking at such beautiful nature left me speechless and allowed for a time when I didn't have to think about anything. By the time I finished the third set, the sun had largely set and night was approaching.