Ninomaru Onsen
Vol.4
Wakayama
Mar 28–29, 2026 Hyogo & Wakayama Sauna Trip

Ninomaru Onsen Experience Story

A Finnish-style sauna in the mountains enveloped by the sound of waterfalls

📅March 29, 202612:00
I had enjoyed alternating hot and cold baths and a Binchotan charcoal sauna at Aritagawa Onsen Hikari-no-Yu and left the facility, but it was still only 10:00. I thought I would just take a quick look around, so I drove a little farther. As often happens to me, before I knew it I was at the reception paying the bathing fee. It never ends with "just looking around." From Arita City I climbed a narrow mountain road, and along the way I saw a sign for Ninomaru Onsen. After a short drive a distinctive log house came into view between the trees. The parking lot was relatively empty, so it seemed the number of visitors was not that large. The moment I got out of the car, the sound of a waterfall filled my ears. A clear stream of the Yamada River flowed in front of me, and the sounds of nature echoed through the whole facility. I breathed in the delicious air and listened to the waterfall for a while. The sounds of nature alone are enough to soothe a person. From the direction of the waterfall came lively voices. Ninomaru Onsen also has an outdoor sauna, and it seems you can enjoy a bold style where you jump from the wood-fired heated waterfall sauna hut straight into the plunge pool below the falls. Those shouts were probably the cheers of people who had just jumped into the pool. I used the main bathing area this time, but I would like to try a private sauna if I get the chance. The facility has three floors: the first floor houses the large public bath, the second floor has reception, valuables lockers, and a restaurant, and the third floor is a relaxation lounge. After checking in I went down to the first floor, changed, and entered the main bath. It is a simple hot spring with a single bathtub. It is an alkaline simple hot spring with pH 10.0, a water quality that leaves the skin smooth. Surely that is not all—indeed it was not. Going down the exterior stairs to the basement, a raw concrete space opens up with a sauna, a cold plunge bath, and an outdoor relaxation area. In front of me was the forest. The sound of the waterfall was always audible. It is truly a space that makes you feel outdoorsy in nature. The sauna is Finnish-style, and powerful heat around 100°C presses in. The cold plunge bath uses spring water chilled by a chiller and is provided at 15°C, so you can expect the mellow touch unique to hot spring water. Given the size of the facility, I suspected it would not be able to handle a large number of guests. It is best to come during less busy hours. First set. I entered the Finnish-style sauna. The powerful 100°C heat wrapped my whole body. The three-tiered interior held a solid amount of heat. The aroma inside the sauna was pleasant, offering a different quality of heat from the Binchotan charcoal sauna at Hikari-no-Yu earlier. I warmed my body slowly and headed to the cold plunge bath. I submerged my entire body in the 15°C cold plunge bath chilled from the hot spring water. The space fits about five people, and the spring water really felt soft. There were no sharp edges like tap water; there was a certain gentleness within the cold. Since I had experienced the Aritagawa artisanal groundwater cold plunge at Hikari-no-Yu earlier, today had been a luxurious day full of natural water experiences. Stepping out to the outdoor relaxation area, I was greeted by the forest view spread out before me. I sat in a chair, breathed in the fresh air while listening to the sounds of nature. Waterfall sounds, birdsong, the wind rustling the trees. You rarely find this kind of outdoor cooling experience at a typical large public bath. I spaced out for a while, staring at the scenery. I enjoyed the second set in the same order: sauna, cold plunge bath, outdoor relaxation. Since this was the second stop on my sauna hop, two sets were enough. My body was completely finished and satisfied.
3rd-floor relaxation lounge
3rd-floor relaxation lounge
Onsite restaurant
Onsite restaurant
Post-sauna lunch
Post-sauna lunch
After changing I went up to the 3rd-floor lounge to relax for a while, then headed to the restaurant. A group that had presumably used the outdoor sauna was eagerly asking the staff what the aroma was. The staff politely replied that it was a blend and that one of the ingredients was white birch. Conversations between sauna enthusiasts are engaging even to overhear. After a short time the fried chicken I ordered arrived and I enjoyed it. It was still only around 12:00, so I had plenty of time. I thought I might spend the day visiting one more place before night, but I was already wrapped in a deep sense of satisfaction. I decided to end the trip there and head home. From Yuasa Town I got on the highway and made a dash toward Shikoku. The impulse to rush out of the house happened yesterday morning. This trip was the kind where the destination was decided on the spot, but I felt again that if the purpose is clear you can always have a great experience. I am always researching hot spring and sauna facilities across Japan. Even if I were to choose a destination by roulette, a pre-checked facility would likely come up somewhere. So even an unplanned, impulsive trip never leaves me without a destination. I had enjoyed a morning sauna with a view of the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge at SPA Sen Taihei-no-Yu, watched a sunset over the white sand from a palace-like hotel at Hotel Kawakyu, experienced the best alternating hot and cold baths of my life and a Binchotan charcoal sauna at Aritagawa Onsen Hikari-no-Yu, and finally enjoyed a sauna in the forest wrapped in the sound of a waterfall at Ninomaru Onsen. In just two days I encountered four wonderful facilities. From now on, on free weekends with no plans I will impulsively rush out of the house and look forward to the best experiences that await. I am always making preparations for that.
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