My body was craving to go back to that place. It had only been ten days since my last visit, yet I couldn't stop thinking about that facility. Even at work, all day long. Just wishing I could go to Kobe Sauna.
On Friday, January 9th, I finally hit my limit and called it a day early. I made a reservation on the spot and got in my car. I usually only visit Kobe Sauna for a day session, but to properly satisfy this craving, I decided the only answer was to stay in a capsule room and soak in the sauna all through the night. I drove toward Kobe Sauna in a state of almost unhinged excitement. Every time I do this, the rush of starting a trip on a Friday evening is hard to put into words. The moment I get in the car, I let out a roar.
■ January 9th, 6:30 PM
I arrived at Kobe Sauna. I told the front desk I'd be staying in a capsule room and checked in. I was already slightly out of breath from the sheer eagerness to get into the sauna. One of the female staff at the front desk gave me a slightly puzzled look and asked, "Would you like a massage?" The massages at Kobe Sauna are genuinely good, but that's not what I was here for right now. I just wanted to get into the sauna. "No thank you," I said. I changed in the locker room at lightning speed and headed to the main bath area. The first Kobe Sauna session of 2026 was finally here.
As always, I washed up, brushed my teeth, and soaked in the natural hot spring bath. Every time I do this, I'm struck by how good the natural onsen at Kobe Sauna really feels. The silky, slightly thick texture of the water seeps into my tired body. After warming up for a while, I headed to the main sauna. Renovated and even more refined than before, the main sauna is supremely comfortable, and the lemongrass aroma is deeply soothing. I was fully aware that dopamine was flooding my brain in large quantities.
After the main sauna, I stepped into the 11.7°C cold plunge bath. My body snapped to attention with a crisp, bracing shock. Then I settled my full weight onto the bench in the outdoor relaxation space. God, this feels incredible. Being nighttime, the savory aromas drifting over from the restaurants in Sannomiya added something extra to the air.
Personally, I think Kobe Sauna is the finest sauna facility in Japan. I've visited countless renowned facilities over the years, but Kobe Sauna is the one where I feel most at ease and most deeply satisfied. I consider myself lucky that this number-one facility in Japan is within driving distance.
For my second set, I moved to the Finnish sauna in the outdoor area. This sauna is extraordinary. Every piece of wood in the sauna room is made from kelo — the so-called "jewel of the forest" — and the space is designed after a Finnish sauna cabin, lit only by the faintest lighting and the natural light filtering through a small window. The convection of heat and steam is wonderful too; when you do a self löyly, the steam envelops your body with a gentle warmth. Above all, the scent of the kelo is something else. No matter how many years pass, that rich, deep fragrance never fades. This sauna is what made me an addict.
I went back to the Finnish sauna for my third set, and decided on it again for my fourth. When I entered, a group of young people were clustered together, chatting away loudly. Very loud. This kind of behavior is completely at odds with the whole concept of a Finnish sauna. If you want to have a conversation, go to the main sauna. I was starting to feel genuinely irritated and was about to leave the room, when the man sitting next to me stood up and began a self löyly. He poured ladle after ladle of water over the sauna stones. By the time he finished his fourth pour, a massive cloud of steam had filled the entire room. Even for me, who had only just entered, it was seriously hot. The group of young people, unable to withstand the ferocious heat, all fled the room. It was a wordless act of discipline, carried out through the power of löyly. After they left, the man who had done the löyly let out a quiet snort and muttered under his breath, "Noisy lot." Thanks to him, my fourth set turned out to be another perfect sauna experience.
From the moment I arrived at Kobe Sauna, the time had been nothing short of wonderful, so I decided to head to the restaurant for dinner. After getting my body in order in the sauna, I'd eat something good and sleep. Since I was staying in the capsule room tonight, I had access to the sauna for a full 24 hours. I had no idea whether I'd sleep well in the capsule, but if I woke up, I could just get back in the sauna.
■ January 10th, 2:00 AM
When I woke up, I was drenched in sweat. The heating in the capsule room was to blame. At the same time, a thunderous snoring reached my ears. And then the unmistakable sound of a very loud fart, followed by laughter. Someone in high spirits at this late hour apparently found it amusing to cut loose in the dark. Honestly, what a situation. As I suspected, quality sleep in a capsule room is simply not on the cards. I tried to fall back asleep, but I lay there wide awake for about thirty minutes, achieving absolutely nothing. Then a thought struck me. This was Kobe Sauna. If sleep wasn't coming, why not go for a late-night sauna session?
When I got to the main bath area, it was practically empty. Just a handful of other guests. I showered and soaked in the natural hot spring. I could feel my sleeping body slowly waking up. Then I headed to the Finnish sauna. No one was there. I had it entirely to myself. The beautiful scent of kelo hung in the air. That fragrance alone was enough to put me in the best possible mood. Since I had just woken up, I skipped the löyly and simply let the heat warm me slowly and deeply. A space entirely my own. The exhilaration of having Kobe Sauna's kelo sauna all to myself. If waking up in the middle of the night in the capsule room led to this, it was more than worth it.
I stepped into the cold plunge bath and then did some outdoor relaxation. It was 3 AM, but from outside came the sounds of laughter and passing cars — the ambient soundtrack of a lively entertainment district. Knowing that people were out there, still wide awake and having fun at this hour, I felt a strange sense of kinship with them, sitting here in the sauna at the same time.
Just as I was thinking I wanted to do one more set, it happened to be time for the löyly service in the main sauna. Didn't matter that it was the middle of the night. At Kobe Sauna, staff-led löyly sessions are held every thirty minutes. There were only two of us in there, including me. Even with such a small audience, the staff greeted us as warmly as ever, poured aromatic water over the stove, and sent a soothing wave of heat our way. I thought to myself that this was the first aufguss of my life at 3 in the morning, as I basked in the heat.
When I returned to the capsule room from the main bath area, drowsiness came over me naturally. Perhaps cycling through sauna and cold plunge had brought my autonomic nervous system into balance and prepared my body for sleep. I closed my eyes slowly and drifted into a dream.
■ January 10th, 8:00 AM
I woke up feeling genuinely refreshed. The clock read 8:00. Time for the sauna. I was living out a full 24 hours at my beloved Kobe Sauna. Outside it was already bright, sunlight streaming into the main bath area. This was my third bathing session, and each time of day brought a completely different view. This was something only an overnight stay could give you.
I washed up and enjoyed the Finnish sauna for both my first and second sets. The third and final set happened to coincide with the löyly service. I entered the main sauna as an orange-scented löyly began. The heat wave hit my just-woken body and sweat broke out as if every cell were coming alive. Starting the day with a löyly is not a bad way to live. With that thought in mind, I wrapped up my morning sauna session.
Now, where to go from here? Yesterday I had driven all the way to Kansai on pure impulse, just to get into Kobe Sauna. But since I was already here, I figured I'd visit a facility I'd had my eye on for a while. One place came to mind immediately: Rumor Plaza, widely regarded as the top sauna facility in Kyoto, situated right in the heart of Gion. With my destination decided, I checked out and pointed the car toward Kyoto.
