During the day, I visited Osaka Sauna DESSE, and in the evening, Naniwa Health Land Yu-topia. Both are among Japan's most celebrated sauna facilities. The fact that I could visit two such legendary spots in a single day — is there any greater luxury for a sauna traveler? I stepped into Naniwa Health Land, savoring every moment of this happiness.
Naniwa Health Land has three saunas: a high-temperature sauna, a meditation sauna, and a forest sauna. I had checked out photos beforehand to get a sense of the atmosphere, but photos and the real experience are, as always, worlds apart. Buzzing with excitement about what kind of sauna experience awaited me, I made my way to the main bathing area.
Upon entering the main bath, I was greeted by rows of large tubs — a herbal bath, a hinoki cypress bath, an outdoor rock bath, and more, offering plenty of warm soaking options. I started by easing into the herbal bath to warm my body. You can jump straight into the sauna, of course, but warming up slowly in a hot bath first tends to produce a much better sweat.
After soaking in the herbal bath for about ten minutes, I headed to the high-temperature sauna for my first set. Opening the door and stepping inside, I was hit by an intense wave of heat — it felt like 100°C. But glancing at the thermometer, it read 85°C. The fact that 85°C felt so ferociously hot meant the humidity was high. Sweat poured out of me almost instantly. The atmosphere inside the sauna room was wonderful too — dim, chic lighting, with each guest seemingly lost in quiet self-reflection. Everyone here must be a real sauna enthusiast.
After about five minutes of steaming, I headed to the cold plunge bath. The 15°C plunge was right next to the high-temperature sauna — the flow between them was perfect. The water is also charcoal-filtered, giving it a noticeably soft quality, and it constantly overflows, keeping it crystal clear. As I sank into the cold water, the heat built up in the sauna gradually drained from my body. I could never get enough of this moment. My heart rate, elevated from the sauna, slowly calmed down with the cooling. Then I practically collapsed into a reclining chair and let the sublime feeling wash over me. I quietly told myself, "Good work today," and felt a deep gratitude for being able to enjoy such a wonderful sauna journey.
For my second set, I headed to the forest sauna. Naniwa Health Land's forest sauna is a steam sauna where the air is filled with steam and the scent of whisks — bundles of leafy branches from birch, oak, and other trees. It was designed around the theme of a calming space that feels like being in the middle of a forest. The exterior resembles a log cabin, just like a traditional Finnish sauna cottage. The moment I stepped inside, the word "incredible" escaped my lips before I could stop it. Whisks hung all along the walls of the dim sauna room, enveloping me in the wonderful fragrance of birch. There was no TV here. And by good fortune, no other guests either. I breathed in the birch scent deeply through my nose and exhaled the impurities from my body with each breath. I focused my awareness entirely on my breathing and the aroma, feeling it with my whole body. I relished having this space entirely to myself, undisturbed by anyone.
For my third and final set, I made my way to the meditation sauna. This sauna, also known as the meditaion sauna, has an iki stove installed in the center of a small sauna room, allowing for self-service löyly. Benches are arranged around the central iki stove so that steam spreads outward in all directions from the middle of the room. The interior was nearly pitch black — it took a moment for my eyes to adjust. I thought I was alone when I entered, but looking ahead, I noticed someone sitting across from me. In the darkness, though, you can't make out the other person's face. Even someone who tends to feel self-conscious around others would likely find it easy to turn inward in a sauna like this.
"Would you mind if I did löyly?" the man in front of me asked. "Please go ahead — thank you so much," I replied, and slowly closed my eyes again. Water was poured onto the sauna stones, and steam surged through the room in an instant. The perceived temperature rose and sweat began pouring out, yet there was also a sense of deep relaxation that came with the warm steam enveloping me. Saunas really are something special. I sat there sweating, perfectly content in my own satisfaction.
One final cool-down in the cold plunge bath, and my sauna session for the day was complete.
All that was left was to enjoy a good meal and get some rest. The neighborhood around Naniwa Health Land retains the atmosphere of a traditional shitamachi downtown area, with long-loved local eateries lining the streets. I decided to take a stroll to cool down after the bath and figure out where to eat along the way.
When I travel, I generally don't research anything beyond saunas. For restaurants in particular, I let instinct guide me in the moment. Whenever I wander through a neighborhood, I always stumble upon a place that just feels right. It takes a bit of courage to walk into somewhere alone, but I'm well past that now.
Strolling down a shitamachi street, I spotted a long-established udon shop. A menu was posted outside, and it seemed their signature dish was curry udon. Perfect. Curry is an ideal post-sauna meal. I ducked under the noren curtain and stepped inside. The owner greeted me warmly with a welcoming "Welcome." It was a shop run by an elderly couple, and the whole atmosphere felt wonderfully warm. I savored every bite of their exquisite curry udon made with homemade noodles, and once again found myself wrapped in a feeling of pure happiness.
Perhaps I'll never set foot in this restaurant again for the rest of my life. But I know I'll never forget it. Strangely, the places you discover on a journey have a way of staying with you forever. Travel is all about once-in-a-lifetime encounters — and the same goes for saunas. That's exactly why I intend to keep throwing myself wholeheartedly into each visit, making the most of every single experience.
With that quietly self-satisfied resolution in my heart, I made my way back to the hotel.
The Osaka sauna journey continues.
