Shizuoka Izu City
A 400-year-old yukaorou connecting a historic Shuzenji inn with free private baths
"Yukaorou Kikuya" is a hot spring ryokan in Izu City, Shizuoka Prefecture. Established 400 years ago, it stands in the heart of Shuzenji Onsen, and the main building where Natsume Soseki stayed for a period of recuperation still remains today. The yukaorou, or bathing corridor, that circles the courtyard with its pond connects the inn, and as you walk through it, the murmuring of the Katsura River and the seasonal garden scenery gradually change before you. In the spacious indoor bath facing the Katsura River and the garden open-air bath wrapped in a forest-like atmosphere, the alkaline simple hot spring gently envelops the skin. The private baths, each with a different character, are free to use and require no reservation, so you can claim one whenever the mood strikes. There are also annexes and guest rooms with open-air baths fed by the spring source, and if you enjoy a drink after bathing in the lounge that is open 24 hours, the night quietly deepens as you immerse yourself in hot water and history.

An indoor bath facing the Katsura River. Its spacious design evokes the flow of the river, and the murmuring of the Katsura River becomes the accompaniment to your bath. The alkaline simple hot spring water flows continuously, leaving the water mellow and gentle, gliding smoothly over the skin. Only the indoor bath among the O-yudono is switched between men and women, so one of the pleasures of staying here is being able to enjoy bath spaces with different settings during your stay. It is open both at night and in the morning except during late-night cleaning hours, so you can return to the sound of the river whenever you feel like it.

An open-air bath that opens onto the seasonal garden. Once you sink into the tub, the forest of Shuzenji and the carefully tended garden spread across your entire field of view. In the daytime, reflections of greenery ripple across the water; at night, you can soak while gazing up at the moon and stars. Though it is the same bath, its expression changes completely between day and night, making it a luxury to experience two different scenes within a single stay. The pleasant touch of the outdoor air on your cheeks is another joy unique to an open-air bath.

Four private baths are scattered throughout the building. Each has a different charm, from a round cypress tub with the fragrance of hinoki, to an open-air bath overlooking the forest, a tub with a reclining bath feature, and a hotter bath whose temperature you can adjust to your liking. All are filled with free-flowing spring water directly from the source, giving them a softness different from the O-yudono baths. No reservation is required and there is no charge, so once you check the sign on the door and step inside, it becomes your own private bathhouse. They are open 24 hours, allowing you to have the bath all to yourself even in the middle of the night or at dawn.

There are detached rooms with private open-air baths, where you can enjoy spring water flowing directly from the source for as long as you like. Step out onto the terrace and the breeze drifts through, gently cooling the post-bath warmth with the outside air. Some rooms also feature semi-open-air hot spring baths, allowing you to sink into the water without even going to the public baths. Without worrying about anyone else, your own quiet time continues through the night and into the morning.
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Guests with tattoos or body art, regardless of size, are not allowed to use the large public baths. They will be directed to use the bath in their room or a private bath.
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Most of what we surveyed never made it onto this site. This is a further cut from what did — places the editor bathed in himself, and places chosen through our own reporting.