I stood on the platform at Takeo Onsen Station with a sense of lingering reluctance. After the morning sauna at OND HOTEL I already felt more than satisfied. Yet I still had one more destination to go. I headed for Futsukaichi Station by train. The moment I stepped off at Futsukaichi Station it was pouring rain. I stepped out of the station and slipped into a taxi. When I asked to be taken to Tenpai Village, Chikushino (Chikushino Tenpai no Sato), the driver replied, “Sure, that place is popular.” I thought to myself that this must be a facility loved by locals, and before I knew it we had arrived. The first thing I noticed after entering the facility was how crowded it was. Even though it was just before noon on a weekday, it was lively. The source of that energy was soon obvious: the on-site restaurant Princess Firefly (Himehotaru) was holding a lunch buffet. Looking around, people of all ages were filling their plates with dishes from across Kyushu. It was wonderful, but my priority was the sauna. I decided to start with a bath. After checking in I headed to the men’s baths. When I opened the locker room door the first thing that struck me was the high ceiling. There was no sense of confinement. That alone told me this was a well-designed facility. I cleansed myself and moved into the indoor bathing area. I slowly soaked in the natural hot spring Tenpai Hot Spring (Tenpai no Yu), which wells up from 1,500 meters underground. The water felt soft. The colorless, clear water wrapped my body with a smooth texture. From the open-air bath you can supposedly get a panoramic view of Mount Houman (Houmanzan) and the city of Chikushino on clear days, but today the heavy rain made the scenery hazy. Well, some days are like that. Perfect conditions don’t always line up in life. After warming up thoroughly in the hot spring, I headed to the sauna area. Chikushino Tenpai no Sato has two types of saunas. The first I entered was the main sauna called Sauna Guardian’s Grove (Sauna Chinju no Mori). The instant I opened the door a rich wood scent hit my nose. The entire ceiling and walls were made of Western red cedar, a lavish construction. Western red cedar refers to Thuja plicata, native to North America. It is a highly durable wood with excellent anti-rot and insect-repellent properties, and it contains unique aromatic compounds that make it one of the finest materials for sauna interiors. It does not transmit heat to the skin as quickly, so the wood stays relatively cool even after sitting for a long time. A clean, sweet freshness distinct from Japanese cedar or cypress filled the entire sauna. What caught my eye most in this sauna was the torii that enshrined the sauna stones. This was my first time encountering a torii inside a sauna room. Sauna culture originated in Finland, but with a torii—the symbol of a Japanese sacred area—placed inside, a distinctly Japanese sanctuary is born. The room temperature was 90–95°C. The three-tiered layout offered spacious seating for about 15 people. The large sauna stove had ample power, and strong heat enveloped the whole body. The cold plunge bath used natural groundwater from Mount Tenpai and was kept at 16°C. The balance of temperature and water quality was exquisite. The instant you entered, a sharp, refreshing sensation ran through your body. There was a slight chlorine smell, suggesting a recirculation filtration system rather than a free-flow setup, but even allowing for that, the water felt mellow and very pleasant. I couldn’t go outside for an outdoor cool-down because of the heavy rain. Instead I lay back on an infinity chair in the indoor bathing area and enjoyed the feeling of my muscles releasing as I stared up at the ceiling. For the second set I went to the self-löyly sauna called Sauna Tenmangu. This space was also lined entirely with Western red cedar and maintained at about 80–85°C. There was no TV, allowing me to enjoy the self-löyly in quiet. When I ladled water onto the stones, a hissing sound burst out and a large volume of steam rose. The humidity shot up and the perceived temperature climbed dramatically. This sauna had everything needed to sit with yourself and reflect. For the third set I returned to the main sauna. I sat upright and worked up a sweat while gazing at the torii. Outside it was still pouring. Yet inside there was a unique tranquility. Each time I entered the sauna the rich wood scent welcomed me. After three sets, my sauna session for the day came to a close.

After changing I finally reached the long-awaited lunch buffet. The buffet at Princess Firefly (Himehotaru) featured luxurious seasonal ingredients from across Kyushu: Hakata mentaiko, chicken dishes from Oita, fresh vegetables from Saga, seafood from Nagasaki. I didn’t know where to start. After much hesitation I piled my plate high. The hunger that follows a sauna makes the food taste even better. This is one of the great pleasures of a sauna trip. Eventually it was time to go home. I headed to Hakata Station and boarded the Shinkansen. I was grateful for another superb trip. I had expected a great experience even before the journey began, but it exceeded my expectations. I want to take a trip like this again. I’ll work hard and plan the next one. What facility will be waiting for me next? With that, this Fukuoka–Saga sauna trip came to an end.