The word sauna-mori is written with the characters for "one who protects the sauna" — a Sauna Guardian. I heard there was a facility in Takeo City, Saga Prefecture, run by a caretaker who holds that stylish title. Well then, I had no choice but to go. A sauna journey exists precisely for encounters like this, I firmly believe. At 8 a.m., I was standing on the platform at Saga Station. My plans for Saga were ambitious: enjoy the sauna in Takeo City, then push on to the Ariake Sea before the day was out. Given the distances involved, a rental car was essential. First, I decided to take the train to Takeo Onsen Station. Gazing out the window, the distinctive shape of Mount Mifu suddenly loomed into view. With its unique ridgeline set against the surrounding rural landscape, it looked like something straight out of a painting. I arrived at Takeo Onsen Station, collected the rental car keys, entered OND SAUNA into the navigation system, and set off. The facility sits in a quiet forest on the outskirts of Takeo City. Following the directions, the trees grew denser and denser until, before I knew it, I was completely immersed in nature. I parked the car and walked the small path leading to the facility. All I could hear were birdsong and the sound of wind rustling through the trees. Every bit of noise that fills ordinary daily life simply did not exist here. That alone was already enough to make me feel wonderful. After checking in, the Sauna Guardian greeted me with a calm smile. He guided me around the facility, explaining how everything worked, and as I pieced together the full picture of the place, I realized something. I had it all to myself. "Today, you are our only guest," the Sauna Guardian said quietly. At that moment, my excitement hit its peak. Was I really being told I could have complete and total run of this theme-park-like facility — with its three distinct saunas: the Wood Sauna, the Metal Sauna, and the Fire Sauna? Was such luxury truly permitted? Of course it was. Let's enjoy every bit of it without holding back. First, I decided to warm up in the drum-can bath. Apparently it uses natural underground water from Takeo, and when I dipped my hand in, the texture was clearly different from ordinary tap water — smooth and mellow like hot spring water, with a faint mineral scent. Soaking in a drum can in the middle of a quiet forest, gazing at the trees. The only sounds were birdsong, the gentle lapping of the water, and somewhere in the distance, the crackle of burning firewood. It struck me all over again just how extraordinarily good it feels to take a bath in the midst of nature. Once I was thoroughly warmed up, it was finally time for the first set. My destination: the Wood Sauna. This sauna, I knew, had won first place in the world at the architecture award A+Awards. Even knowing that fact, seeing it in person still came as a surprise. A single building stacks the sauna, the cold plunge bath, and the outdoor relaxation space vertically — you exit the sauna room, pass through the cold plunge bath, climb a spiral staircase, and arrive at a rooftop relaxation deck 3.5 meters above the ground. The moment I stepped into the sauna room, the flames of the wood-burning stove leapt into my eyes. At 85°C, the space was filled with the sound and scent of burning wood. Every sense — sight, hearing, smell — was shaken all at once. Could there really be such a richly sensory way to enter a sauna? No television. No music. Only the flames, the heat, and my own heartbeat. After heating my body thoroughly, I moved to the cold plunge bath, fed continuously with natural carbonated underground water. The water depth is 130 cm. Fresh underground water flows in constantly, keeping it crystal clear. The 17°C water enveloped my overheated body all at once. There was the same soft mellowness as hot spring water. Is this the power of carbonated underground water? It felt like my very skin was letting out a roar. Climbing out of the cold plunge and up the spiral staircase, I found an Adirondack chair waiting for me. The view of Takeo's forest from 3.5 meters up was simply breathtaking. Looking out at a sea of green from the same level as the treetops. I was already deeply in a state of totonou, yet the stunning scenery amplified it even further. This was the kind of outdoor relaxation I had always wanted. This facility delivered that long-held wish with effortless ease. Beside the outdoor relaxation area, there is a bonfire space. Gazing at the flames while cooling down outside — the perfect setting. After a while, the Sauna Guardian came over and spoke quietly. Sauna Guardian: "How are you finding it?" Me: "It's so incredible, I can't find the words." Sauna Guardian: (smiling) "Thank you. Actually, I love saunas too — I've been going around every sauna in Kyushu." Me: "Really? Then please, tell me — which facilities in Kyushu should I not miss?" For about ten minutes after that, a lively sauna discussion with the Sauna Guardian followed. Which facilities were exceptional, which cold plunge baths were outstanding. I hadn't expected the facility's caretaker to be such a passionate sauna enthusiast. And that, I realized, was exactly why the saunas here were the real thing. A sauna built by someone who truly loves saunas is a sauna filled with love. For the second set, I headed to the Metal Sauna. One look at the exterior and I couldn't help but laugh. Entirely clad in stainless steel mirrors, the surrounding trees reflected right back into it, making the sauna appear to melt into the forest — like a piece of contemporary art. In stark contrast to the cool, inorganic exterior themed around "order," the interior opens into a warm space of pine wood. With the place all to myself, there was no one else around. Naturally, I had this one entirely to myself as well. I spread my bath towel on the bench and lay down on my back. A single-person cold plunge bath sits right beside it, designed so you can enjoy both sauna and cold plunge in a completely private space. I warmed up slowly, staring at the ceiling, then slipped into the cold plunge on my own. Naturally, this one also flows with natural carbonated underground water. Honestly, it feels incredible. So incredible it breaks my vocabulary.

The word sauna-mori is written with the characters for "one who protects the sauna" — a Sauna Guardian. I heard there was a facility in Takeo City, Saga Prefecture, run by a caretaker who holds that stylish title. Well then, I had no choice but to go. A sauna journey exists precisely for encounters like this, I firmly believe. At 8 a.m., I was standing on the platform at Saga Station. My plans for Saga were ambitious: enjoy the sauna in Takeo City, then push on to the Ariake Sea before the day was out. Given the distances involved, a rental car was essential. First, I decided to take the train to Takeo Onsen Station. Gazing out the window, the distinctive shape of Mount Mifu suddenly loomed into view. With its unique ridgeline set against the surrounding rural landscape, it looked like something straight out of a painting. I arrived at Takeo Onsen Station, collected the rental car keys, entered OND SAUNA into the navigation system, and set off. The facility sits in a quiet forest on the outskirts of Takeo City. Following the directions, the trees grew denser and denser until, before I knew it, I was completely immersed in nature. I parked the car and walked the small path leading to the facility. All I could hear were birdsong and the sound of wind rustling through the trees. Every bit of noise that fills ordinary daily life simply did not exist here. That alone was already enough to make me feel wonderful. After checking in, the Sauna Guardian greeted me with a calm smile. He guided me around the facility, explaining how everything worked, and as I pieced together the full picture of the place, I realized something. I had it all to myself. "Today, you are our only guest," the Sauna Guardian said quietly. At that moment, my excitement hit its peak. Was I really being told I could have complete and total run of this theme-park-like facility — with its three distinct saunas: the Wood Sauna, the Metal Sauna, and the Fire Sauna? Was such luxury truly permitted? Of course it was. Let's enjoy every bit of it without holding back. First, I decided to warm up in the drum-can bath. Apparently it uses natural underground water from Takeo, and when I dipped my hand in, the texture was clearly different from ordinary tap water — smooth and mellow like hot spring water, with a faint mineral scent. Soaking in a drum can in the middle of a quiet forest, gazing at the trees. The only sounds were birdsong, the gentle lapping of the water, and somewhere in the distance, the crackle of burning firewood. It struck me all over again just how extraordinarily good it feels to take a bath in the midst of nature. Once I was thoroughly warmed up, it was finally time for the first set. My destination: the Wood Sauna. This sauna, I knew, had won first place in the world at the architecture award A+Awards. Even knowing that fact, seeing it in person still came as a surprise. A single building stacks the sauna, the cold plunge bath, and the outdoor relaxation space vertically — you exit the sauna room, pass through the cold plunge bath, climb a spiral staircase, and arrive at a rooftop relaxation deck 3.5 meters above the ground. The moment I stepped into the sauna room, the flames of the wood-burning stove leapt into my eyes. At 85°C, the space was filled with the sound and scent of burning wood. Every sense — sight, hearing, smell — was shaken all at once. Could there really be such a richly sensory way to enter a sauna? No television. No music. Only the flames, the heat, and my own heartbeat. After heating my body thoroughly, I moved to the cold plunge bath, fed continuously with natural carbonated underground water. The water depth is 130 cm. Fresh underground water flows in constantly, keeping it crystal clear. The 17°C water enveloped my overheated body all at once. There was the same soft mellowness as hot spring water. Is this the power of carbonated underground water? It felt like my very skin was letting out a roar. Climbing out of the cold plunge and up the spiral staircase, I found an Adirondack chair waiting for me. The view of Takeo's forest from 3.5 meters up was simply breathtaking. Looking out at a sea of green from the same level as the treetops. I was already deeply in a state of totonou, yet the stunning scenery amplified it even further. This was the kind of outdoor relaxation I had always wanted. This facility delivered that long-held wish with effortless ease. Beside the outdoor relaxation area, there is a bonfire space. Gazing at the flames while cooling down outside — the perfect setting. After a while, the Sauna Guardian came over and spoke quietly. Sauna Guardian: "How are you finding it?" Me: "It's so incredible, I can't find the words." Sauna Guardian: (smiling) "Thank you. Actually, I love saunas too — I've been going around every sauna in Kyushu." Me: "Really? Then please, tell me — which facilities in Kyushu should I not miss?" For about ten minutes after that, a lively sauna discussion with the Sauna Guardian followed. Which facilities were exceptional, which cold plunge baths were outstanding. I hadn't expected the facility's caretaker to be such a passionate sauna enthusiast. And that, I realized, was exactly why the saunas here were the real thing. A sauna built by someone who truly loves saunas is a sauna filled with love. For the second set, I headed to the Metal Sauna. One look at the exterior and I couldn't help but laugh. Entirely clad in stainless steel mirrors, the surrounding trees reflected right back into it, making the sauna appear to melt into the forest — like a piece of contemporary art. In stark contrast to the cool, inorganic exterior themed around "order," the interior opens into a warm space of pine wood. With the place all to myself, there was no one else around. Naturally, I had this one entirely to myself as well. I spread my bath towel on the bench and lay down on my back. A single-person cold plunge bath sits right beside it, designed so you can enjoy both sauna and cold plunge in a completely private space. I warmed up slowly, staring at the ceiling, then slipped into the cold plunge on my own. Naturally, this one also flows with natural carbonated underground water. Honestly, it feels incredible. So incredible it breaks my vocabulary.