The characters literally read 'one who protects saunas', pronounced Sauna Mori. I had heard that a facility whose manager carries such a stylish title is located in Takeo City, Saga Prefecture. If that's true, I had no choice but to go. I believe sauna trips exist for encounters like this. At 8:00 in the morning I was standing on the platform at Saga Station. My itinerary for Saga was ambitious: enjoy saunas in Takeo City, then extend my trip to the Ariake Sea before the day ended. Considering the distances, a rental car was essential. First I took the train to Takeo Onsen Station. Looking out the window, the distinctive silhouette of Mifuneyama suddenly appeared. With its unique ridgeline set against the surrounding rice fields, it looked like a painting. I arrived at Takeo Onsen Station and picked up the rental car keys. I entered OND SAUNA into the car navigation and set off. The facility is in the suburbs of Takeo City, tucked into a quiet forest. As I followed the signs, the trees grew denser until I realized I was completely surrounded by nature. I parked and walked along the path leading to the facility. All I could hear were birds. All I could hear were the sounds of wind rustling the trees. Every everyday noise was absent from this place. That alone was already making me feel good. After checking in, the Sauna Mori greeted me with a gentle smile. He politely explained how to use the facility while showing me around. As I took in the layout, I realized one fact. To my surprise, I had the place to myself. 'You are the only guest today,' Sauna Mori said quietly. At that moment my excitement peaked. A wood sauna, a METAL sauna, and a fire sauna. This theme-park-like facility offers three types of saunas, and I was being told I could have them all to myself. Could such luxury really be allowed? Of course it could. I resolved to enjoy it without reservation. First, I warmed up in a drum-can bath. They use Takeo's natural groundwater, and when I put my hand in the water the texture was clearly different from ordinary tap water. It felt mellow like hot spring water and even had a faint onsen-like scent. Sitting in the drum-can bath in the quiet forest looking at the trees, all I heard were birds, the lapping of the water, and the distant crackle of burning wood. I was reminded how wonderful it is to bathe in the great outdoors. Fully warmed up, I began my first set in the Wood sauna. This sauna reportedly won first place in the A+Awards world architecture prize. Even knowing that, seeing it in person is astonishing. Sauna, cold plunge bath, and outdoor relaxation space are stacked vertically within a single building. You exit the sauna, pass through the cold plunge bath, then climb a spiral staircase to reach a rooftop outdoor relaxation space 3.5m above ground. The moment I entered the sauna room, the flames of the wood-burning stove caught my eye. The 85℃ space was filled with the sound and scent of burning wood. Sight, hearing, and smell were all stirred at once. Is there any other way to experience a sauna with such richness? There was no TV. No music. Only the flame, the heat, and my own heartbeat. After heating my body thoroughly, I went to the cold plunge bath fed by flowing naturally carbonated groundwater. The water depth is 130cm. Fresh groundwater is continuously replenished, and the water is very clear. The 17℃ water enveloped my overheated body instantly. It had a mellow quality like onsen water. Is this the power of carbonated groundwater? My skin felt like it was letting out a primal cheer. Leaving the cold plunge bath, I climbed the spiral staircase and found an Adirondack chair waiting. The view of Takeo's forest from 3.5m up was simply breathtaking. At eye level with the trees, I gazed over a sea of green. I should have already been totonou, yet this spectacular view amplified that feeling even more. This was the outdoor relaxation I had wanted. I had longed to totonou in a place like this, and the facility granted that wish effortlessly. Beside the outdoor space there was a bonfire area. I sat by the flames as I relaxed outdoors. It was the perfect setting. After a while, Sauna Mori came over and spoke to me quietly. Sauna Mori: How is it? I: It's too perfect for words. Sauna Mori: (smiling) Thank you. Actually, I'm a big sauna fan myself and I travel all over Kyushu visiting saunas. I: Really? Then please tell me which facilities in Kyushu are must-visits. For about ten minutes we discussed Kyushu saunas. Which facilities are sublime, which cold plunge baths are outstanding. I hadn't expected the facility manager to be such a sauna enthusiast. No wonder this place felt so authentic. A sauna made by someone who loves saunas carries that love. For the second set I tried the METAL sauna. The first glimpse of the exterior made me laugh. The stainless-steel exterior is mirror-clad, reflecting the surrounding trees so the sauna appears to melt into the forest. It looks like a piece of contemporary art. In contrast to the inorganic exterior themed on 'order,' the interior is warm with pine wood. Since it was still reserved just for me, I had the place completely to myself. I laid a bath towel on the bench and lay back. A single-person cold plunge bath sat beside the sauna, allowing for a fully private sauna and cold plunge experience. I slowly heated my body while staring at the ceiling, then went into the cold plunge bath alone. Of course this too was fed by naturally carbonated groundwater. It felt unbelievably good. I was at a loss for words.

For the third set I returned to the Wood sauna. This time I tried a self-löyly. Using a ladle I poured water onto the sauna stones of the wood-burning stove. With a sizzling roar a huge amount of steam spread throughout the room. The temperature shot up and my heart rate spiked. It felt fantastic. I could tell every pore on my body had opened. Getting carried away and repeating löyly several times, a staff member called to me from outside the sauna room. Staff: You really like it hot, don't you~~! Bingo. I burst out laughing, and the staff laughed too. Warm interactions like that are one of the great pleasures of sauna trips. The fourth set was also in the Wood sauna, but this time the staff performed löyly for me. It wasn't an ordinary löyly. They used herbs they cultivate themselves from the surrounding forest. In a whisking-style motion they held the herbs above the stove and let the scent ride on the steam throughout the room. In an instant an amazing aroma invaded my nostrils. Could there be a greater luxury? Are there any other facilities that perform löyly with homegrown herbs? Breathing that fragrant sauna steam, my heart rate raced past its limits. The experience was so lavish that the word luxury felt inadequate. I finished with a fifth set in the Fire sauna. It was a barrel sauna with a window looking out into the forest. Outside the window green stretched as far as the eye could see. Leaves flickered in the wind, scattering light. Right next to the sauna exit was yet another cold plunge bath fed by groundwater. That completed my fifth set. In the end I had the entire OND SAUNA to myself that day and enjoyed five sets. Looking back, not a single experience was the same. The Wood sauna wrapped in flames, the METAL sauna that seemed to dissolve into the mirrors, the Fire sauna spent alongside a bonfire. Each had its own concept, each had its own cold plunge bath, each had its own outdoor relaxation. There are not many facilities across the country for which the description 'sauna theme park' fits so well. Soaked in Takeo's naturally carbonated groundwater and having completed five sets in the silence of the forest, I felt completely emptied. No distracting thoughts, no stray ideas, nothing. I left the facility in a pure state. Afterward I went to a yakiniku restaurant near Takeo Onsen Station and enjoyed Saga beef. For the second day in a row it was Saga beef. Even two days in a row, I never get tired of it. I replenished the energy spent in the saunas with top-quality meat. Could there be a better routine? But the day's journey was not over. Next I headed to the Ariake Sea. Waiting for me was one of Saga Prefecture's premier facilities where you can enjoy sauna, cold plunge bath, and outdoor relaxation while overlooking the Ariake Sea: Kani Goten Ariake Sea Bath. From Takeo's forest to the Ariake Sea, my Saga trip continued.