「Gose Takarayu」 - A Visit

I'm drawn more to places with history and retro charm than new, pristine facilities. "Gose Takarayu" in Gose City, Nara Prefecture, is exactly that kind of place. "Gose Takarayu" is a renovated facility that reopened after serving as a historic public bath from 1916 (Taisho 5) until 2008. While preserving its traditional retro atmosphere, it features a Finnish-style clay wall sauna with self-löyly capability (the clay walls being the key point), a cold plunge around 14°C, and outdoor air bathing space. I'd known about this wonderful public bath sauna for some time. By choosing "Yao Grand Hotel" as my trip's starting point, access to "Gose Takarayu" became naturally convenient. There was no reason not to go. I excitedly jumped in my car. It took about an hour from Yao Grand Hotel to reach Gose City, Nara Prefecture. The time was 11 AM. Since "Gose Takarayu" has no parking lot, I parked at a coin parking near Gose Station and decided to explore the town. The old-fashioned streetscape remains, giving a sense of history. Finding post-sauna food wouldn't be a problem either. About a 5-minute walk from "Gose Takarayu" is "Shinchi Irifune," a long-established set meal restaurant. Curry udon and oyakodon seem to be their specialties. A delicious dilemma. Well, I can decide what to eat based on my mood after leaving the sauna. Having enjoyed the town walk, it was finally time to enter the sauna. As I approached the shop, there was some kind of crowd gathering. What's going on? The opening time should be 11 AM. It's past 11, so it should be open. To check the situation, I pretended to be a passerby and walked past once. Glancing inside, it appeared to be a TV station interview. I could see large cameras too. I pretended to turn the corner at the dead end and made a U-turn. "We're filming, so you can't enter today" - please spare me that. I only have today to visit this place. With these thoughts, I approached the shop. Just as I was about to pass through the noren curtain and enter, two men called out to me. Two men: "We're filming a travel program for ○○○, and we'd really like to interview a regular customer. Would you be willing to participate?" Me: "Hello. Actually, I'm not a regular. I might look like one, but *laughs* I'm on a sauna trip and this is my first time here..." Two men: "Ah... I see... But the story of someone coming from far away specifically for this facility is interesting too! Could we please interview you with that angle?" Me: "Well, that's a bit difficult... I'm in retirement. Living a low-key life." Two men: "That's unfortunate... One last time, absolutely no way?" Me: (I already said no, didn't I?) I almost said it out loud but managed to hold back at the last moment. I smiled and deflected, entering the shop. Inside, a large TV crew was waiting. A famous celebrity I recognized was sitting in a chair. I was a bit surprised, but I'm also a professional sauna enthusiast. TV interviews are irrelevant. I must concentrate 100% on enjoying the sauna. With a composed face, I completed the reception, purchased a rental towel and drink, and entered the changing room. Fortunately, filming seemed to have ended, and the bathing area was in a private state. First bath of the day. Entering the bathing area, it truly felt like a local public bath with a retro atmosphere. However, being a renovated facility, each amenity was clean. Cleanliness blended with retro atmosphere. It felt like past and present had merged. I was able to enjoy the first bath for a while. Soon, an elderly man who appeared to be a regular rushed in. As soon as he entered the bathing area, he spoke to me. Regular: "Did ya do the interview??" Me: "Nah, I didn't *laughs*" Regular: "You shoulda done it! *laughs* They came asking me for an interview too, ya know!" Me: "I ain't no regular *laughs* This is my first time here today, ya know? *laughs*" Regular: "Ah, that's what it is. Well, I didn't do it neither *laughs*" Me: "You didn't do it either?! *laughs*" Regular: "See, with these kinda things, there's always folks who love being on camera. So we can just leave it to them people. Us? We don't gotta worry 'bout none of that - let's just take our time and enjoy the sauna." I completely agreed. I headed to the sauna at the same time as him. Entering the sauna room, there's a nice lemongrass fragrance. Plus, I'm enveloped in gentle heat. The reason is that this is a "clay wall" sauna. Clay walls have high heat retention properties and don't become suddenly hot just on the surface like metal or concrete, but continue to emit heat gradually. Also, since clay is a material that can absorb and release moisture, löyly steam spreads gently and softly. As a result, you can warm your body from the core with a pleasant sensation. The exquisite temperature and humidity allowed me to sweat profusely in comfort. As my heart rate approached its limit, I moved to the cold plunge. The perceived temperature was around 14°C. Quite cold and refreshing. Right next to the cold plunge, log chairs are prepared. Being a town public bath, there isn't much space, but I felt comfort in that limited space. Plus, unlike super public baths, there aren't many people. Right now, it's just me and the regular. I focused my consciousness on my heartbeat and breathing in the quiet space. After resting for about 10 minutes, I headed for the second set. The regular was still continuing his first set. Quite a tough guy. After the regular left, I decided to do some self-löyly. I poured aromatic water on the sauna stones. The lemongrass fragrance spread instantly. Simultaneously, the room temperature rose, and my heart rate increased. This is quite a good sauna. Hot saunas aren't necessarily good saunas. Good saunas are comfortable, quiet, dark, fragrant, and warm you from your core. "Gose Takarayu's" sauna has all of these qualities. I thought "I want to come again" and "I want to enter this sauna again." In the end, I was able to achieve perfect totonou for three solid sets. When I left the bathing area, the TV crew had gone home, so it had returned to a quiet space. I told the receptionist, "It was the best sauna. I'll come again." When asked "Did you achieve totonou?" I replied "I totally achieved totonou..." with gratitude. The receptionist probably has confidence in their sauna too. Nodding, they gave me a triumphant look. The people working there also love saunas and have confidence in their own sauna. People gather at facilities like this. Since there were no people around, I had a sauna and cold plunge discussion with the receptionist for a while. This is an experience you can't easily have at large facilities like super public baths. At town public baths, "the receptionist is often the owner," so you can sometimes hear stories from the founding days. This kind of communication is also part of the charm of sauna trips. I'm quite hungry. Next comes the usual post-sauna meal time.

Just a short walk from "Gose Takarayu" is "Shinchi Irifune," a famous curry udon restaurant. It must be a shop that's been loved for a long time. It shows its age. I was in the mood for curry udon, so I decided to try their specialty. Incidentally, I've eaten curry udon many times in the past, but I've never finished all the soup. I'd never encountered curry udon that made me want to drink it all. After a while, a voice called out: "Hey brother, your curry udon is ready, come get it!" I see, so it's a self-service style. Interesting. I returned to my seat, and the moment I tasted the curry soup, it was so delicious that it felt like electricity ran through my body. I'd never had such delicious soup before. It's curry, but the bonito dashi is effective, giving it a Japanese feel. And the spiciness is exquisite - a flavor I could drink forever. A few minutes later, I had finished all the soup. A perfect morning. Now, what to do about the next destination? I had decided to come to "Gose Takarayu," but I hadn't decided anything after that. Go home? No way. The trip is too enjoyable. Then I need to decide on the next sauna and accommodation. I entered a nearby coffee shop to make plans. Drinking coffee while opening Google Maps. I searched for places with good access from Gose City, Nara Prefecture. The destination was found immediately. "Koyaguchi-no-Yu" in Hashimoto City, Wakayama Prefecture. I regularly research sauna facilities. I bookmark facilities I want to visit on Google Maps, so wherever I go, there's a sauna nearby. I have that many registered. From previous research, I had anticipated that "Koyaguchi-no-Yu" in Wakayama Prefecture might be an excellent facility. Despite being a public bath, it apparently has a Harvia-made iki sauna and an excellent cold plunge using natural groundwater. Checking the route, it takes less than an hour by car from Gose City. All that's left is deciding on accommodation. I checked booking sites and found a business hotel in Kinokawa City, Wakayama Prefecture, so I made a reservation. Since it's during a holiday period, I was worried hotels might be fully booked, but I'm grateful for this good fortune. The next destination is the exquisite old folk house public bath "Koyaguchi-no-Yu." To be continued.