That morning, I did one set of sauna at Shin-Gifu Sauna, where I was staying, finishing with a plunge into the subterranean waters of the Nagara River before checking out.
From Gifu Station, I took a train to Mino-Ota Station, then transferred to a train bound for Tajimi and headed for Hime Station. Rice paddies and mountains drifted past the window. Hime Station turned out to be unstaffed, with nothing around it — no convenience store, just a lone vending machine standing in the quiet. From there, I walked about 20 minutes up toward the hills. Following the peaceful road, a sign for Tennen Onsen Mitsune eventually came into view.
The building has the look of a traditional inn. Stepping through the noren curtain, I was greeted by a meticulously tended Japanese garden. The pure Japanese aesthetic stopped me in my tracks. I hadn't even entered the main baths yet, but it was already clear this place was something special. The harmony of Japanese design and garden scenery was exactly my taste.
After checking in at the front desk, I made my way to the main baths. The outdoor scenery visible from the indoor bath was breathtaking.
Beyond the large windows, maple and cherry trees lined the view, with a forest stretching behind them. The cherry blossoms happened to be in full bloom. One magnificent cherry tree was putting on a spectacular show. Reclining chairs had been set up so guests could lie back and take in the blossoms during their outdoor rest. Looking out at the scenery, I thought: this place must be beautiful in any season. Spring brings cherry blossoms; as summer approaches, the greenery becomes vivid; autumn offers fall foliage; and in winter, you can soak in the outdoor bath while gazing at a snow-covered landscape. If you want to experience Japan's four seasons and its hot springs at the same time, this is the place to come.
The variety of baths is impressive too — naturally flowing rock baths, a silky bath, a carbonated spring, and more are arranged throughout the outdoor area, with beautiful nature visible from every angle. As for the sauna and cold plunge baths: there are two dry saunas and two cold plunge baths, both spacious and remarkably comfortable.
After rinsing off, I first sank into the outdoor free-flowing rock bath. A naturally flowing hot spring lets you receive the gifts of the earth directly. It feels wonderful, of course, but there's a deeper joy in knowing the water is truly flowing through as nature intended. The power of the hot spring was incredible — my body warmed through in no time. All right, time for the first dry sauna.
First set. I entered the 90°C sauna using far-infrared heaters. Settling onto the top bench, I noticed the seat was angled at about 100 degrees — designed so you naturally fall into a relaxed posture. That kind of thoughtful detail makes me happy. The sauna room itself was spacious, and I could sit comfortably with plenty of room. After warming my body thoroughly, I headed for the 17°C cold plunge bath fed by groundwater. Also spacious — room for about six people. The water circulation was excellent, keeping the water quality consistently clean.
After cooling down thoroughly, it was time for outdoor rest while gazing at the cherry blossoms. Sitting back in the chair and looking up, a sea of full-bloom cherry blossoms filled my entire field of vision. Petals drifted down on the breeze. I suppose this is what it means to experience Japan's four seasons directly during outdoor rest. What a luxurious moment.
For the second set, I headed to the other sauna in the outdoor area. A large sauna stove was piled high with sauna stones, set up for löyly. Auto-löyly apparently runs every 30 minutes. Through the sauna room window, I could see the forest stretching beyond the outdoor bath area. The humidity was high, and I worked up a good sweat. After warming my body fully, I stepped out of the sauna room to find the second cold plunge bath right in front of me — a perfect layout. This plunge bath was deep, and I could submerge my whole body completely. What a feeling. I moved back to the cherry blossom viewing outdoor rest area. The spring air gently brushed my skin. When I closed my eyes, all I could hear was birdsong and the sound of flowing water.
Third set. I began by sinking back into the natural hot spring to warm my cooled body once more. The gradual process of warmth returning to a chilled body is, again, absolutely sublime. Warming in the sauna, cooling in the water, warming again in the hot spring — there's a sense of this cycle reaching deep into the body. From there, I headed back to the löyly sauna and finished with the groundwater cold plunge bath, completing my morning sauna session.
When you place yourself within beautiful nature, time loses its meaning. Simply gazing at the scenery is enough to fill you with happiness. Add hot springs and sauna to that, and it becomes a treasure you will never forget for the rest of your life. The memory of reaching totonou under cherry blossoms in full bloom will stay with me for a long time to come.