That evening, after leaving Spa Alps, I grabbed some sushi at Toyama Station before heading to my accommodation at the Apa Hotel. I'd had delicious sushi and an incredible sauna experience at Spa Alps — all that was left was to sleep...
That might be the sensible conclusion for most people, but not for me. I was going to sauna again at night. On top of that, I had intel that the Apa Hotel Stay Toyama, where I was staying, had an outstanding sauna. The concept behind it: not just the typical "bonus sauna" you find in most hotels, but a facility built to stand on its own as a proper sauna destination, complete with day-use bathing options. I checked in buzzing with excitement, wondering what kind of sauna awaited me.
When I stepped into the large bathing area, I was immediately struck by its sheer size. It was clearly beyond anything you'd expect from a hotel. The highlight was the lavish relaxation space — the outdoor area had over ten reclining chairs lined up, and there was a separate indoor relaxation space with even more chairs. As for the saunas themselves: the main sauna room fits around 20 people and features automatic löyly, plus there are five private sauna rooms with self-service löyly — a remarkably generous setup. For the cold plunge, there are five individual tub baths filled with groundwater from the Tateyama mountain range. I've rarely come across a hotel sauna this luxurious. If I were a business traveler who made frequent trips to Toyama, I'd book Apa Hotel Stay Toyama without a second thought.
With my orientation complete, it was time to get in. I started with the main sauna. The moment I entered, the automatic löyly kicked in, and an intense wave of heat hit my skin. A warm welcome, it seemed. The main sauna also has air vents that circulate the steam generated by the löyly throughout the room. The instant I sat on the top bench, sweat started pouring out of me. Having already done eight sets at Spa Alps earlier in the day, I was well warmed up. After about five minutes of sweating it out, I headed to the cold plunge.
I stepped out of the main sauna, rinsed off under the shower, and made my way to the outdoor area where the tub baths were. Here, I felt a slight disappointment. The private tub baths have a nice intimate feel, but they're extremely cramped. You have to fold your body quite a bit just to submerge to your shoulders. For reference, at 170 cm and on the slim side, I found it tight — anyone with a larger frame would find it even more so. A slightly bigger tub would make for a much more relaxing soak. I also noticed that the cold water doesn't flow continuously. Each tub has a sensor that adds water when the level drops, then stops once it reaches a certain point — there's no overflow. As a result, you can see debris floating on the surface. If they're going to tout the use of Tateyama groundwater, I think letting it flow freely would really elevate the appeal of the facility as a sauna destination. I wonder if there's some reason they can't do that.
That said, the water is set to 16°C and does the job of cooling your body down just fine. I chilled out thoroughly and then stretched out in the outdoor relaxation area.
For my second set, I moved to one of the self-service löyly private saunas. Completely solo, total privacy. I put on some music and sat alone with my thoughts. As I slowly reflected on the first day of the trip, I worked up a solid sweat. I added another round of löyly to crank up the heat, then cooled off in the cold plunge and called it a night.
After leaving the bathing area, I found a lounge near the elevators with high-quality massage chairs available for free. Ending the day with a sauna session followed by a massage — a perfect routine. I headed back to my room and drifted off into a dream.
The next morning I woke up at six. Eight hours of sleep — a perfect start to the day. Even on the road, my routine doesn't change. I brushed my teeth and headed out for my morning walk. I wandered around the hotel's neighborhood and then sat down for breakfast. One of the biggest draws of Apa Hotel is its excellent morning meal, and this time I was in for a treat: a generous spread of Hokuriku seafood and local cuisine. I helped myself at the buffet and enjoyed all the regional specialties. As you can see in the photos, the kaisen-don (seafood rice bowl) was absolutely outstanding. It was the perfect fuel to charge up before day two.
The destination for the second day of my Hokuriku sauna trip is a facility in Kurobe City that's widely hailed as a sauna theme park. Above all, it's home to my all-time favorite type of sauna. What kind? The wood-fired sauna. The crackling sound of burning wood, the flames, the scent, the soft heat radiating from a natural source — it offers a deeply restorative experience. On top of that, the facility uses Kurobe's famous water for the cold plunge, which flows continuously and is drinkable. You can actually gulp down natural spring water while sitting in the cold bath — a gloriously primal experience.
That facility is Yuya FUROBAKKA.