
Vol.3
Oct 3–6, 2025 Hokuriku Sauna Journey (Toyama & Ishikawa)
「Bathhouse FUROBAKKA」Visited
Exquisite Wood-Fired Sauna and Kurobe's Famous Cold Plunge Bath
📅October 4, 202510:00
The second day of my sauna journey in Hokuriku starts from "Yuya FUROBAKKA."
I took a local train called "Ainokaze Toyama Railway" from Toyama Station, heading towards Kurobe Station. Gazing at the vast rural landscape and the Tateyama Mountain Range from the train window, I arrived at Kurobe Station in no time. There's nothing much around the station. Upon checking the route to "Yuya FUROBAKKA," I found it takes about 20 minutes on foot. I can't wait. I want to get into the sauna quickly. There was a taxi at the station's rotary, so I immediately got in and said, "To Yuya FUROBAKKA, please."
Standing in front of the entrance, I took photos of the facility with a grin. The reason for my excitement is that the sauna at "Yuya FUROBAKKA" is very close to my ideal sauna. My ideal sauna is one where I can gaze at the flames of a wood-burning stove in a quiet, dark hut, listen to the sound of burning wood, enjoy the smell of the wood, and be led into a meditative state.
When I found "Yuya FUROBAKKA" while researching sauna facilities in Toyama Prefecture, I couldn't help but mutter, "I've been waiting for a sauna encounter like this." The ideal sauna is right in front of me. It's impossible not to be excited. I was confident of success even before entering the facility. Fortunately, it was right after opening and the weather was rainy, so the parking lot was empty. It's certain that there are few people. What luck. Let's quickly complete the reception and enjoy the wood sauna.
On the way to the large bath after completing the reception, my sense of smell was already dominated. The wonderful scent of wood permeates the entire facility. On both sides of the corridor, a large amount of wood for use in the sauna is stocked. This atmosphere is also excellent. I moved to the changing room, got naked in seconds, and entered the bath. No one is here. It feels like a private reservation. I didn't expect to be able to use the large bath privately. I cleansed myself and decided to first enter the carbonated bath. After relaxing for about 10 minutes, my body gradually warmed up. I was ready to enter the sauna. I wiped off the water droplets from my body and headed to the outdoor area where the sauna is located.
The large bath at "Yuya FUROBAKKA" has two types of saunas. The "Anagura Sauna," which offers a cave-like atmosphere, and the "Yamagoya Sauna," which is modeled after a hut. Both are wood saunas.
First, I decided to go to the "Anagura Sauna." A cave-like building surrounded by concrete comes into view. When I opened the entrance door, a different world unfolded before me. The only light illuminating the pitch-dark interior was the flame of the wood stove and the faint light leaking from the entrance gap. The sauna walls are also bare concrete, truly like a cave. I slowly sat on the bench. The indoor temperature is 85°C. The heat is incredibly soft. Moreover, the scent of wood, the sound of burning wood, and the flames provide exceptional healing. It feels like having a bonfire in the pitch-black darkness. And there's no one else here but me. There's no chance to monopolize such a space. I slowly closed my eyes and became one with nothing. I thought of nothing, just enjoyed the sound and scent of the wood. I must have been in there for about 10 minutes. I was in a complete meditative state. Even though I was sitting in the same place, I felt like I had gone to some faraway world. I've been going to saunas for many years, but this was my first experience like this. As I had sweated quite a bit, it was time to head to the cold plunge bath.
The cold plunge bath at "Yuya FUROBAKKA" lavishly uses 560 liters per minute of groundwater, a blessing of the nature-rich Kurobe. I entered it as if being sucked in. The thermometer reads 13°C. It's quite cold, but it has the unique mellowness of groundwater. If it were 13°C tap water, I wouldn't be able to relax and soak like this. Looking to the side, I see water pouring in with tremendous force. I can't help but grin. It's time to drink the much-awaited water. I filled my hands with the famous water of Kurobe and gulped it down. Ah, how delicious. It seeps into the body healed by the wood sauna. I feel like my energy is being recharged. I then lay down on the outdoor air bath chair, and the ultimate relaxation time arrived.
For the second set, I went to the "Yamagoya Sauna." Unlike the "Anagura Sauna," it has large windows, making the interior bright. From the windows, you can see the adjacent large park. The lush green scenery provides healing. Above all, the scent is still wonderful. Wood saunas are the best. In this "Yamagoya Sauna," you can enjoy self-löyly. A large number of stones are piled on top of the large wood stove, and you can pour water over them. Since I was the only one, I did löyly multiple times. I entered a meditative state here as well. I focused all my senses on the sound, scent, and flames of the wood. As I began to sweat profusely, I headed for the second cold plunge bath. I cooled my body with the famous water of Kurobe and drank natural water in the same flow. How good it feels.
After that, I enjoyed two sets each of the "Anagura Sauna" and "Yamagoya Sauna" (a total of six sets), concluding my morning sauna activities.

A large stock of firewood is stored in the corridor

Rest Room

Napolitan Lunch at Dentetsu Kurobe Station 'Pasta Shokudo Regalo'
After leaving the sauna and changing clothes, I lay down in the rest room (second photo) and couldn't move for about 30 minutes. I was in a daze from the overwhelming pleasure and satisfaction. It was a dream sauna that seemed to encapsulate all my ideals.
When I'm truly moved during a sauna journey, I often find myself in a daze. At such times, I try to enjoy being in that state to my heart's content. It's an unfamiliar place, and I have no acquaintances. There's no need to worry about being seen. It's a solo trip anyway, and there's no fixed destination other than the sauna. I remain still until I feel like saying, "Okay, let's go." In daily life, I often have to suppress my desires, so during a sauna journey, I fully liberate myself. I move as I please. That's what it means to be human.
Regaining consciousness in the rest room, I started to feel like taking action. It's still morning. There's time until night. How should I spend this time? I haven't planned anything. I'll decide now. This freedom is the charm of travel. Now, where should I go? While researching Kurobe's attractions, I found a tourist spot called "Unazuki Onsen." It seems there's a hot spring town in the Kurobe Gorge, and a trolley train that accesses the depths of the gorge. You can enjoy the great outdoors while riding the train. Sounds good. It's perfect for killing time. I'll tour Unazuki Onsen and then head to tonight's accommodation.
Incidentally, tonight's accommodation is also a sauna facility I've been eyeing for a while. It's a sauna produced by Mikie Sasano, the daughter of the "Sauna Shikiji," a sacred place for saunas in Japan. Located on the 9th floor of "Hotel Gran Mirage" in Uozu City, Toyama Prefecture, the facility is called "Spa Barnage." Tonight as well, an exquisite sauna awaits me.
Wrapped in such excitement, parting with "Yuya FUROBAKKA" was still sad, and I left the facility in tears.
Facility Name
Yuya FUROBAKKA
Business Hours
10:00〜23:00
Closed irregularly
Tattoo Policy
🚫 No Tattoos
Dry SaunaConvection Stove (Sauna Stone)🪵 Wood-fired12people
A wood-fired sauna using domestic cypress located in the outdoor space of the large public bath. There is no TV, allowing you to enjoy the scent of cypress and the sound of firewood. Self-löyly is possible. Aufguss events by popular heat wave masters are held in this sauna.
Dry SaunaConvection Stove (Sauna Stone)🪵 Wood-fired10people
The dark interior covered with concrete resembles a cave. The dim room is illuminated by the flames of a wood stove, allowing you to enjoy the sound and scent of burning wood while feeling the gentle heat. It is a perfect space for meditation. Regular automatic löyly is available.
GroundwaterFlow-through✓ Drinkable2people
Pipe type with a depth of 160cm
GroundwaterFlow-through✓ Drinkable1people
Pipe type with a depth of about 100cm
GroundwaterFlow-through2people
Long vertical bathtub type
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