Entering a sauna while looking at Mount Fuji. To make this dream come true, I came all the way to Lake Yamanaka. I would have the open-air baths and saunas all to myself while monopolizing views of Mount Fuji and Lake Yamanaka, sink into a cold plunge bath filled with natural spring water from Mount Fuji, and drink that same natural water. Just thinking about it made me tremble. Could such an experience really be possible? It can. At Hotel Mount Fuji. What’s more, that morning I had been at Sauna Shikiji. I soaked in natural spring water at the holy ground of Japanese saunas, got overwhelmed by the herbal steam sauna, and drank that water heartily. With that afterglow still with me, I was heading to Hotel Mount Fuji. Sauna Shikiji to Hotel Mount Fuji. An unbelievable golden route was about to be completed. I took the shinkansen from Shizuoka Station to Mishima Station. From there I boarded the Kawaguchiko Liner highway bus toward Lake Yamanaka. Shizuoka was cloudless and sunny, and Mount Fuji was clearly visible from the train window. Today it would definitely be visible. I was sure the conditions were perfect. However, as soon as I entered Yamanashi, the sky grew suspicious. By the time I passed Gotemba, Mount Fuji had vanished. The closer I got to Lake Yamanaka village, the thicker the fog became. I had a bad feeling. And the moment I arrived, reality hit me. Not only was the base of Mount Fuji hidden, its silhouette was nowhere to be seen. Well, these things happen. I tried to tell myself that, but it didn’t work. The shock was too big. Just a few hours earlier it had been so clearly visible. Looking up from the lakeshore toward the hill, a solid building floated out of the fog. That was Hotel Mount Fuji. I switched to a taxi and climbed the slope. The exterior conveyed history and prestige. Inside, the calm atmosphere of a luxury hotel prevailed. At check-in I was asked if I would like to dine at the restaurant, but I politely declined. I had already picked up a bento at the market in Shizuoka Station. For a solo sauna trip, that meal was more than enough. I can save a high-end course dinner for when I have company. I was shown to my room. Normally a vast panorama of Mount Fuji and Lake Yamanaka would have spread beyond the window. I could barely make out the lake. Mount Fuji left no trace. Fog and overcast had swallowed everything. On the other hand, my imagination ran wild. If it were clear, what a view this would be. Maybe it would clear up after a while. Maybe the fog would disappear while I was in the hot spring. I kept hoping optimistically. If you cannot see it, there is nothing you can do. I decided to fully enjoy the hot springs and saunas even without the view. First I headed to the Detached Outdoor Bath (Hanare no Yu). This facility only has open-air baths. The moment I stepped outside, the sight of Lake Yamanaka pierced the fog and hit my vision. Even through the thick mist, the scale of the lake was clearly conveyed. If it were clear, Mount Fuji would tower beyond this lake. This had to be an extraordinary scenic bath. That much I was sure of. I sank slowly into the natural hot spring, staring blankly at Lake Yamanaka shrouded in fog. Even without the view, just being there felt luxurious. Now for the main event. I headed to Starry Sky Bath (Mantenboshi no Yu). The moment I entered the changing room, cleanliness and a pleasant scent greeted me. Staff cleaned frequently, and lockers and floors were always kept tidy. That alone conveyed the facility’s quality. When I entered the bathing area, there were only three other guests. To be able to use one of Japan’s top facilities almost privately was extremely fortunate. First set. To the löyly sauna. When I opened the door, a Metos-made iki stove sat in the center. There was no TV. The lights were dimmed, and a dark, modern space unfolded. I was the only person in the sauna. Sitting on the bench, I spoke aloud. Ah, this feels so good. The best. When I’m alone I say it out loud. That’s my way. Speaking it lifts my mood another notch. There’s no need to hold back when no one else is around. I closed my eyes and entered meditation. In the silence, my own time began. After a while the automatic löyly kicked in. Mount Fuji’s natural water was poured onto the stove, and steam filled the sauna. The ceiling had a subtle curvature in the corners, creating excellent convection. Heat wrapped evenly around my whole body. I could feel my pores opening all at once. I reached my limit and headed for the cold plunge bath. A single-person tub was flowing with natural spring water from Mount Fuji. Since it was almost private, I submerged my whole body without hesitation. The heat drained away. It felt around 13°C to the touch, but it was completely different from tap water. It didn’t sting. The cold was soft and enveloping. That sensation can only be experienced in a cold plunge bath filled with natural spring water. Then came the customary ritual. I cupped my hand under the faucet pouring the natural spring water and drank it straight. It was sweet. I had drunk natural spring water at Sauna Shikiji in the morning and now at Hotel Mount Fuji at night. What a lavish day of water. Mount Fuji’s blessings seeped into me from the outside and the inside. After leaving the cold plunge bath, I collapsed into a chair in the outdoor area. I stared up at the sky toward the direction where Mount Fuji should have been. Nothing was visible. The fog covered everything like a thick wall. That enormous mountain should surely be beyond it. I felt an urge to blow it all away, but I couldn’t do anything about the weather. Maybe it was a sign to come again another time. Second set. I walked to the outdoor area’s self-löyly sauna. The facility’s biggest highlight is entering the sauna while looking at Mount Fuji. Of course, today Mount Fuji could not be seen. Also, this outdoor sauna has no cold plunge bath, so I had to return to the bathing area to cool down. The layout is poor. No view of Mount Fuji and the cold plunge bath is far away. There was little advantage to sticking it out in that condition. After a few minutes I gave up and returned to the löyly sauna. By the time I reached the third set, it was fully night. This is Lake Yamanaka: the elevation is high and the air is clear. If the weather had been good, a star-filled sky would have opened above. The scenery would live up to the name Starry Sky Bath. Tonight those stars could not be seen either. It was frustrating, but nothing could be done about the weather. I entered the final sauna, drank natural spring water at the cold plunge bath, and drew the curtain on that day’s sauna activities.

I returned to my room and ate the bento I bought at the market. Delicious. Anything tastes great after a sauna. After eating I obsessively checked the weather forecast. It predicted clouds in the morning and clearing in the afternoon. Mount Fuji would surely be visible by the afternoon. But there was a problem. Checkout was at 10:00. I absolutely could not wait until 14:00. If Mount Fuji didn’t show its face in the morning, everything would be over. Hoping to stay a bit positive, I collected any convenient information I could find. I found an article saying that Mount Fuji can sometimes be seen even when it’s cloudy. Wait a moment. That means there was a chance it could be visible the next morning. That was encouraging. I decided to go with that. I closed my eyes praying that when I opened the curtains in the morning, Mount Fuji would be there. In my dreams, Mount Fuji bathed in the morning sun towered beyond the window. However, the next morning the instant I opened the curtains, a great despair awaited me.