The beautiful scenery in the great outdoors cannot be manufactured. You cannot place a sea or a mountain where one does not belong. The majestic nature that has been there since ages past is special on its own. I believe that entering a sauna while gazing at such a view is an act that lets you feel a direct reward from the Earth. Day 3 of my sauna trip. Today I enter Nagano Prefecture. In Shizuoka and Yamanashi I was blessed with Mt. Fuji’s natural water. The sacred water at Sauna Shikiji, the vanadium water at Hotel Mount Fuji and Fujiyama Onsen, the blended spring cold plunge at Yorimichi no Yu. Everywhere I went the water was superb. In Nagano, the blessings of the Northern Alps and Mount Tateshina await me. In the morning I woke up at a business hotel near Otsuki Station to clear skies. When I went out for a walk I saw something like a shrine up on the hill. I decided to head that way, but the slope was steep. A brisk wake-up for my sleepy body. Yet when I turned around for a moment, I was breathless. Mt. Fuji was clearly visible. The mountain that I couldn’t see at all two days ago at Hotel Mount Fuji appeared here. A lucky start to the morning. I boarded the Azusa No.3 from Otsuki Station bound for Chino City in Nagano. Mt. Fuji and the Southern Alps drifted by outside the window. Even the journey was richly satisfying. I arrived at Chino Station and transferred to a bus bound for Lake Shirakaba. After about 30 minutes of rocking along, my destination drew near. The sight of Lake Shirakaba rushed into view. Under a clear blue sky the lake surface sparkled. Snow still lingered on the upper slopes of the mountains. Soon I would be entering a sauna while taking in this spectacular view of Lake Shirakaba. I got off at Higashi-Shirakaba and passed through the gate of Shirakaba Resort Ikenotaira Hotel Koten no Yu. I was greeted by an elegant exterior and found the interior bustling with many tourists. Day-use bathing begins at 11:30. I entered right at opening. That way I could enjoy time free from crowds. It’s my personal policy. I bought a ticket at the vending machine and stepped inside to find a spacious after-bath lounge. There was a bar counter serving natural water from Mount Tateshina, reclining chairs, a reading area, and massage chairs. Outside the window people were skiing at the resort on the mountainside. After taking it all in, I headed to the men’s bath, Ki no Yu. The locker room was extremely clean. There was a family restroom and a two-person family shower. The design clearly considered families bathing with small children. Inside the bathing area a liberating space made lavishly of Kiso cypress spread out before me. The indoor bathtub was overwhelmingly large. You rarely see such a wide tub. Curiously, there was a door inside the tub that led to the open-air bath. It’s a unique design allowing you to step into the outdoor bath while still immersed. Both the indoor and outdoor baths use natural hot spring water from Tarugasawa Onsen, letting you soak while gazing at Lake Shirakaba. It was a view to lose oneself in. Set 1. After warming my body in the hot spring while gazing at Lake Shirakaba, I headed to the sauna. The sauna was entirely clad in wood and could fit about eight people. There was no TV. There was only one spot to lie down. Of course, since it was empty I used it without hesitation. Lying down in a sauna feels truly wonderful. I try to do it whenever possible. I noticed birch wood attached to the sauna's walls. Bringing my nose close, the sweet scent unique to birch stimulated my nostrils. It was soothing. As I lay there relaxing, the automatic löyly began. Spring water from Mount Tateshina was poured over the sauna stones and fine steam rose. The perceived temperature rose instantly. To the cold plunge bath. It was a continuously flowing spring from Mount Tateshina. The water temperature was 13℃. The moment I submerged, a sharp coldness ran through my whole body. Unlike the soft feel of the Mt. Fuji water I soaked in Yamanashi, this had a lighter, sharper texture on the skin. So this is Tateshina water. When the land changes, the water changes. I then moved to the outdoor relaxation area. I took a deep breath of the fresh Lake Shirakaba air. Soaking in the natural hot spring while looking at the lake, warming my body in a birch-scented sauna, and finishing crisp with Mount Tateshina spring water. This is what a washing of the soul probably feels like. But even up to this point the experience was already wonderful. Shirakaba Resort Ikenotaira Hotel Koten no Yu still had more in store. The mixed bathing sauna area Ku awaited. A panorama sauna with a full view of Lake Shirakaba, a potable cold plunge fed by Mount Tateshina spring water, outdoor cool-down spaces overlooking the lake, and an infinity open-air bath. The main course of the day had not yet begun. I changed into swimwear in the men's bath and headed to the mixed bathing area. Climbing the stairs to the upper floor, the spring-fed cold plunge from Mount Tateshina came into view first, pouring like a waterfall from above. The water temperature was 12℃. I planned to indulge later. I walked along the corridor and opened the sauna door. I was breathless. Through the glass the spectacular view of Lake Shirakaba opened up. The benches were designed with curves evoking mountain waves so that no matter where you sat you faced the lake. It felt as if I were taking a sauna floating over the lake. Three sauna stoves were installed and the temperature was 90℃. Self-löyly was possible and that day lemon-scented water had been prepared. I could hardly believe I could enter a sauna while gazing at this view. Fortunately, it was private here as well. I was alone in both the sauna and the cold plunge. No need for restraint. This is the best! I couldn’t help but shout. There was no way to stay quiet in front of that view. I used self-löyly with the lemon-scented water and enjoyed the steam while looking out over Lake Shirakaba. It was indulgence to the extreme. When I reached my limit I jumped into the cold plunge. I reached out to the waterfall of Mount Tateshina spring water and drank it right there. Cold and sweet. The 12℃ natural water cooled my entire body. Ah, this feels amazing! Another shout escaped me. I couldn’t stop. In the outdoor relaxation area chairs were lined up next to the infinity open-air bath with a full view of Lake Shirakaba. The moment I sank into a chair I felt as if I had entered another world. The lake surface sparkled and the mountain ridgelines dissolved into the sky. I was so stunned I couldn’t move for a while. I remained there until an inner voice said, "Okay, let’s go for the next set." Set 3, set 4, set 5. Each time I entered the sauna I was drawn into the view of Lake Shirakaba. I thought this set would be the last. But each time the desire to see that view once more won out. In the end I completed 6 sets that day. The view of Lake Shirakaba was too beautiful and the sauna and cold plunge felt too good to stop.

I ate at the hotel restaurant, which also offers views of Lake Shirakaba. I ordered curry rice and recharged the energy I had burned in the sauna. The restaurant was lively with families. Everyone looked happy and content. As a solo guest I felt very happy as well. A place where everyone can be happy—such facilities are truly precious. I boarded the route bus again and returned to Chino Station. From there I took the JR line toward Murai Station. A few minutes' walk from Murai Station was tonight's sauna stage and my lodging. It is one of Nagano’s top bathing facilities, named Shinshu Health Land.