The beautiful scenery of untouched nature cannot be created by human hands. You cannot place an ocean wherever you like, nor can you set a mountain in place. The grand natural landscapes that have existed there since time immemorial are special simply by virtue of that fact. I believe that entering a sauna while gazing upon such scenery is an act of directly receiving a gift from the earth itself. Day three of the sauna journey. Today I cross into Nagano Prefecture. In Shizuoka and Yamanashi, I was blessed with natural water from Mt. Fuji — the sacred water of Sauna Shikiji, the vanadium water of Hotel Mount Fuji and Fujiyama Onsen, the blended hot spring water bath at Yorimichi no Yu. Wherever I went, the water was exceptional. In Nagano, the gifts of the Northern Alps and Mt. Tateshina await me. In the morning, I woke up at a business hotel near Otsuki Station to clear blue skies. Setting out for a walk, I spotted something that looked like a shrine up in the hills. I decided to head toward it, but the incline was steep — quite a jolt for a body still half-asleep. Then, the moment I happened to turn around, I caught my breath. Mt. Fuji was standing there, perfectly visible. That very mountain I couldn't see even a sliver of from Hotel Mount Fuji two days ago had now revealed itself here, of all places. A good omen to start the morning. I boarded the Azusa No. 3 from Otsuki Station, bound for Chino City in Nagano. Mt. Fuji and the Southern Alps drifted past the window. Even while in transit, the time felt genuinely rich. I arrived at Chino Station and transferred to a local bus heading for Lake Shirakaba. After about thirty minutes of gently swaying along, my destination came into view. Lake Shirakaba burst into my field of vision. Under a perfectly clear sky, the surface of the lake shimmered with light. Snow still clung to the upper reaches of the mountains. Soon I would be entering a sauna with this magnificent view of Lake Shirakaba before me. I got off at Higashi-Shirakaba-ko and passed through the gates of Shirakaba Resort Ikenotaira Hotel. The dignified exterior welcomed me in, and inside, the hotel buzzed with many tourists. The day-use bathing facility opens at 11:30 a.m. I make it a point to enter the moment the doors open — that way I can enjoy my time completely free from the crowds. It's my personal policy. I bought a ticket at the vending machine and stepped inside to find the post-bath lounge spreading out before me: a bar counter serving natural spring water from Mt. Tateshina, reclining chairs, a reading space, massage chairs. Outside the windows, people were skiing down the hillside ski slopes. After taking it all in, I made my way to the men's bath, Kino Yu. The locker room was spotlessly clean. There were dedicated restrooms for families with children, and two-person parent-and-child showers. The whole design showed thoughtful consideration for families bathing with small children. Entering the bathing area, I was greeted by a spacious, open environment making generous use of Kiso hinoki cypress. The indoor bath was overwhelmingly large — you don't often come across a bathtub this expansive. What made it even more interesting was a door inside the bathtub itself leading out to the open-air bath. It was a unique design that let you step outside while still submerged in the water. Both the indoor and outdoor baths use natural hot spring water from Tarugasawa Onsen, and you can soak while gazing out at Lake Shirakaba. The view was absolutely enchanting. First set. I warmed my body in the hot spring while taking in the scenery of Lake Shirakaba, then headed to the sauna. The walls were entirely wood, large enough for about eight people. No television. There was one spot where you could lie down. Since I had the place to myself, of course, I took full advantage. Lying down in a sauna really is something else. I make a point to do it whenever I can. My eye caught birch wood panels affixed to the wall of the sauna. I leaned in close, and the sweet, distinctive fragrance of birch tickled my nostrils. Wonderfully calming. I lay there for a while, relaxing, when the automatic löyly began. Spring water from Mt. Tateshina was poured over the sauna stones, and a cloud of high-quality steam rose up. My perceived temperature shot up in an instant. On to the cold plunge bath. Flow-through spring water straight from Mt. Tateshina. Water temperature: 13°C. The moment I submerged myself, a crisp, sharp cold raced through every inch of my body. Unlike the soft caress of the Mt. Fuji natural water I had soaked in back in Yamanashi, this was lighter, more brisk, with a sharper feel against the skin. So this is the water of Mt. Tateshina. Change the land, and the water changes too. From there I moved to the outdoor relaxation area and drew in a deep breath of the fresh air off Lake Shirakaba. Gazing at Lake Shirakaba while soaking in natural hot springs, warming my body in a sauna room carrying the scent of birch, then finishing off with a sharp hit from the natural water of Mt. Tateshina. I suppose this is what they mean by washing the soul clean. Now, what I've described so far is already a magnificent experience. But Shirakaba Resort Ikenotaira Hotel's Koten no Yu still has something more waiting. The mixed-bathing sauna area called Ku. A panoramic sauna overlooking the stunning vistas of Lake Shirakaba, a cold plunge bath filled with drinkable spring water from Mt. Tateshina, an outdoor relaxation space to reach totonou while gazing at Lake Shirakaba, and an infinity open-air bath. The main course of today had not yet begun. I changed into my swimsuit in the men's bath and headed to the mixed-bathing area. Climbing the stairs and emerging on the upper floor, the cold plunge bath filled with Tateshina spring water immediately caught my eye. Water was cascading in from above like a waterfall. Water temperature: 12°C. I'd soak in it to my heart's content later. I walked down the corridor and opened the door to the sauna. I caught my breath. Through the glass, a breathtaking panorama of Lake Shirakaba spread out before me. The benches were designed with a curved shape evoking mountain ridges, so no matter where you sat, Lake Shirakaba was right in front of you. It felt as though you were floating on the lake while sitting in the sauna. Three sauna stoves were installed and the temperature was 90°C. Self-service löyly was also available, and that day, lemon-scented water had been prepared. I could hardly believe I was actually sitting in a sauna with this view. As luck would have it, I had this place entirely to myself as well. In both the sauna and the cold plunge, it was just me, alone the whole time. No need to hold back. "This is incredible!" The words just came out. There was no way I could stay silent in the face of this scenery. I performed a self-service löyly, filled the air with the scent of lemon, and steamed myself while gazing at Lake Shirakaba. This was luxury beyond all measure. When I hit my limit, I dove into the cold plunge. I reached out my hand to catch the Tateshina spring water cascading down like a waterfall and drank it straight. Cold and sweet. The 12°C natural water cooled my entire body. "Ahhh, that feels amazing!" Another cry escaped me. There was no stopping it now. Moving to the outdoor relaxation space, I found chairs lined up alongside the infinity open-air bath overlooking the full expanse of Lake Shirakaba. The moment I sank into one of the chairs, I fell into a kind of illusion — as if I had arrived in another world entirely. The surface of Lake Shirakaba glittered with light, and the mountain ridgeline dissolved into the sky. I was in a daze and couldn't move for some time. I simply stayed there, until a voice from somewhere inside said, all right, let's go for the next set. Third set, fourth set, fifth set. Each time I entered the sauna, I was drawn completely into the view of Lake Shirakaba. I kept thinking this would be my last set. But then that desire to see that view just one more time would win out every single time. In the end, I completed six sets that day. The scenery of Lake Shirakaba was too beautiful, the sauna and cold plunge too exquisite — I simply could not bring myself to stop.

The beautiful scenery of untouched nature cannot be created by human hands. You cannot place an ocean wherever you like, nor can you set a mountain in place. The grand natural landscapes that have existed there since time immemorial are special simply by virtue of that fact. I believe that entering a sauna while gazing upon such scenery is an act of directly receiving a gift from the earth itself. Day three of the sauna journey. Today I cross into Nagano Prefecture. In Shizuoka and Yamanashi, I was blessed with natural water from Mt. Fuji — the sacred water of Sauna Shikiji, the vanadium water of Hotel Mount Fuji and Fujiyama Onsen, the blended hot spring water bath at Yorimichi no Yu. Wherever I went, the water was exceptional. In Nagano, the gifts of the Northern Alps and Mt. Tateshina await me. In the morning, I woke up at a business hotel near Otsuki Station to clear blue skies. Setting out for a walk, I spotted something that looked like a shrine up in the hills. I decided to head toward it, but the incline was steep — quite a jolt for a body still half-asleep. Then, the moment I happened to turn around, I caught my breath. Mt. Fuji was standing there, perfectly visible. That very mountain I couldn't see even a sliver of from Hotel Mount Fuji two days ago had now revealed itself here, of all places. A good omen to start the morning. I boarded the Azusa No. 3 from Otsuki Station, bound for Chino City in Nagano. Mt. Fuji and the Southern Alps drifted past the window. Even while in transit, the time felt genuinely rich. I arrived at Chino Station and transferred to a local bus heading for Lake Shirakaba. After about thirty minutes of gently swaying along, my destination came into view. Lake Shirakaba burst into my field of vision. Under a perfectly clear sky, the surface of the lake shimmered with light. Snow still clung to the upper reaches of the mountains. Soon I would be entering a sauna with this magnificent view of Lake Shirakaba before me. I got off at Higashi-Shirakaba-ko and passed through the gates of Shirakaba Resort Ikenotaira Hotel. The dignified exterior welcomed me in, and inside, the hotel buzzed with many tourists. The day-use bathing facility opens at 11:30 a.m. I make it a point to enter the moment the doors open — that way I can enjoy my time completely free from the crowds. It's my personal policy. I bought a ticket at the vending machine and stepped inside to find the post-bath lounge spreading out before me: a bar counter serving natural spring water from Mt. Tateshina, reclining chairs, a reading space, massage chairs. Outside the windows, people were skiing down the hillside ski slopes. After taking it all in, I made my way to the men's bath, Kino Yu. The locker room was spotlessly clean. There were dedicated restrooms for families with children, and two-person parent-and-child showers. The whole design showed thoughtful consideration for families bathing with small children. Entering the bathing area, I was greeted by a spacious, open environment making generous use of Kiso hinoki cypress. The indoor bath was overwhelmingly large — you don't often come across a bathtub this expansive. What made it even more interesting was a door inside the bathtub itself leading out to the open-air bath. It was a unique design that let you step outside while still submerged in the water. Both the indoor and outdoor baths use natural hot spring water from Tarugasawa Onsen, and you can soak while gazing out at Lake Shirakaba. The view was absolutely enchanting. First set. I warmed my body in the hot spring while taking in the scenery of Lake Shirakaba, then headed to the sauna. The walls were entirely wood, large enough for about eight people. No television. There was one spot where you could lie down. Since I had the place to myself, of course, I took full advantage. Lying down in a sauna really is something else. I make a point to do it whenever I can. My eye caught birch wood panels affixed to the wall of the sauna. I leaned in close, and the sweet, distinctive fragrance of birch tickled my nostrils. Wonderfully calming. I lay there for a while, relaxing, when the automatic löyly began. Spring water from Mt. Tateshina was poured over the sauna stones, and a cloud of high-quality steam rose up. My perceived temperature shot up in an instant. On to the cold plunge bath. Flow-through spring water straight from Mt. Tateshina. Water temperature: 13°C. The moment I submerged myself, a crisp, sharp cold raced through every inch of my body. Unlike the soft caress of the Mt. Fuji natural water I had soaked in back in Yamanashi, this was lighter, more brisk, with a sharper feel against the skin. So this is the water of Mt. Tateshina. Change the land, and the water changes too. From there I moved to the outdoor relaxation area and drew in a deep breath of the fresh air off Lake Shirakaba. Gazing at Lake Shirakaba while soaking in natural hot springs, warming my body in a sauna room carrying the scent of birch, then finishing off with a sharp hit from the natural water of Mt. Tateshina. I suppose this is what they mean by washing the soul clean. Now, what I've described so far is already a magnificent experience. But Shirakaba Resort Ikenotaira Hotel's Koten no Yu still has something more waiting. The mixed-bathing sauna area called Ku. A panoramic sauna overlooking the stunning vistas of Lake Shirakaba, a cold plunge bath filled with drinkable spring water from Mt. Tateshina, an outdoor relaxation space to reach totonou while gazing at Lake Shirakaba, and an infinity open-air bath. The main course of today had not yet begun. I changed into my swimsuit in the men's bath and headed to the mixed-bathing area. Climbing the stairs and emerging on the upper floor, the cold plunge bath filled with Tateshina spring water immediately caught my eye. Water was cascading in from above like a waterfall. Water temperature: 12°C. I'd soak in it to my heart's content later. I walked down the corridor and opened the door to the sauna. I caught my breath. Through the glass, a breathtaking panorama of Lake Shirakaba spread out before me. The benches were designed with a curved shape evoking mountain ridges, so no matter where you sat, Lake Shirakaba was right in front of you. It felt as though you were floating on the lake while sitting in the sauna. Three sauna stoves were installed and the temperature was 90°C. Self-service löyly was also available, and that day, lemon-scented water had been prepared. I could hardly believe I was actually sitting in a sauna with this view. As luck would have it, I had this place entirely to myself as well. In both the sauna and the cold plunge, it was just me, alone the whole time. No need to hold back. "This is incredible!" The words just came out. There was no way I could stay silent in the face of this scenery. I performed a self-service löyly, filled the air with the scent of lemon, and steamed myself while gazing at Lake Shirakaba. This was luxury beyond all measure. When I hit my limit, I dove into the cold plunge. I reached out my hand to catch the Tateshina spring water cascading down like a waterfall and drank it straight. Cold and sweet. The 12°C natural water cooled my entire body. "Ahhh, that feels amazing!" Another cry escaped me. There was no stopping it now. Moving to the outdoor relaxation space, I found chairs lined up alongside the infinity open-air bath overlooking the full expanse of Lake Shirakaba. The moment I sank into one of the chairs, I fell into a kind of illusion — as if I had arrived in another world entirely. The surface of Lake Shirakaba glittered with light, and the mountain ridgeline dissolved into the sky. I was in a daze and couldn't move for some time. I simply stayed there, until a voice from somewhere inside said, all right, let's go for the next set. Third set, fourth set, fifth set. Each time I entered the sauna, I was drawn completely into the view of Lake Shirakaba. I kept thinking this would be my last set. But then that desire to see that view just one more time would win out every single time. In the end, I completed six sets that day. The scenery of Lake Shirakaba was too beautiful, the sauna and cold plunge too exquisite — I simply could not bring myself to stop.