After giving my body a jolt at Karumarú Ikebukuro in the early evening, I headed out into the streets of Tokyo. It was less sightseeing and more of a pilgrimage through places that hold memories. I wandered around the neighborhoods where I used to live and the areas near companies I once worked at, letting the past come back to me. What kind of mindset did I carry through my daily life back then? What was my lifestyle like? And how much have I grown since those days? My only benchmark is my former self. It's my firm belief that comparing yourself to others brings absolutely nothing good in life. Sure, if you're the type of person who draws high motivation from comparison and sees results follow, then fine. But more often than not, comparing yourself to others just drains your motivation. As long as you're succeeding on your own internal terms, that's enough.
Once I'd had my fill of revisiting old haunts, an idea came to me. Should I head back to my accommodation at Karumarú Ikebukuro, or should I visit another sauna? I'd already been to Karumarú that same evening, and I could go again the next morning. Given that, visiting a different facility seemed like the best move for any self-respecting sauna enthusiast.
My destination: Toshimaen Niwa no Yu. It's easily accessible from Ikebukuro and has appeared in all sorts of media as one of Tokyo's well-known facilities. I hopped on the Seibu Ikebukuro Line from Ikebukuro Station and arrived at Toshimaen Station. A short walk later, the destination came into view.
There was a crowd gathered near the entrance. I had a bad feeling, but tried to play dumb and walk in anyway — only to be stopped in my tracks. "Excuse me, sir. Do you have a numbered ticket?" A staff member was managing entry at the door. A numbered ticket? I was momentarily taken aback. I didn't have one, so I couldn't go in. When I told the staff member as much, they handed me one. It had a number on it, and apparently I wasn't allowed inside until my number was called. It was December, and cold outside. The idea of being made to wait in the freezing air genuinely irritated me.
I briefly considered giving up and going back to Karumarú Ikebukuro, but I had no particular reason to rush and nothing planned afterward. I'm a man of leisure, after all. I decided to stay, wait patiently, and enjoy myself in style once my turn came.
In the end, I waited a full hour. Taking a numbered ticket and waiting an hour just to get into a bath. A first in my life. When I finally got inside, it wasn't especially crowded. The baths and sauna had plenty of space. I see — by setting a cap on the number of bathers in advance, they ensure a comfortable experience once you're in. Far better than a packed communal bath.
I cleansed myself and slipped into the natural hot spring. The smooth, gentle water enveloped my chilled body with warmth. That moment washes away everything that came before it. The wait had built up some stress, but the moment I sank into the onsen and exhaled, none of it mattered anymore. That is the power of a hot spring.
After warming up, it was time for the sauna. Toshimaen Niwa no Yu has two saunas: a Finnish sauna and a salt sauna. They're set in a dedicated sauna area with plenty of plants, evoking the feel of a Finnish forest. The atmosphere is superb. Stepping into the Finnish sauna, the scent of wood and aromatics drifted through the air, and the lighting was warm and dim. The walls were lined with cross-sections of logs — genuinely artistic. The air felt slightly dry, so I thought they might benefit from increasing the frequency of the auto-löyly. I sat cross-legged on the wide bench and spent time quietly warming my body, reflecting on the day.
After the sauna, I headed to the cold plunge bath. I submerged myself — head and all — in the deep bath at around 15°C. Being able to go fully under is wonderful, and the water temperature is perfect. Going from head to toe to completely cooled in one go gives an incredible rush of refreshment. The whole concept is inspired by authentic Finland: the sensation of leaping into a lake straight out of the sauna.
The rest area after the cold plunge was equally impressive — a relaxation space recreating a Finnish garden wrapped in wood and greenery. The Finnish sauna, cold plunge bath, and rest area share a completely unified aesthetic, and the flow between them is seamless. The physical sensation of bliss combined with the satisfaction of the facility itself sent waves of happiness washing over me. I couldn't move for quite a while.
At Toshimaen Niwa no Yu, I did three sets of sauna bathing. All three were in the Finnish sauna, cycling through sauna → cold plunge → rest with a clear and empty mind. By the time I left the main bath area, every stray thought and trace of fatigue had been stripped away. Empty. Nothing left to do but sleep. I returned to Karumarú Ikebukuro and dove straight into bed.
The bath in this entry
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