A morning sauna is truly a wonderful thing.
The night before, I had indulged in an exceptional sauna and horse meat cuisine, and before I knew it, I had drifted off to sleep. I returned to the waking world at 5 a.m. — it seemed I had slept soundly for about seven hours. Knowing that the sauna would be open again from 6 a.m., I was at maximum excitement the moment I woke up.
At 6 a.m. sharp, as soon as the doors opened, I made my way to the large bathhouse. Just like the night before, I was the only guest there. Were the other guests still asleep? I undressed and stepped inside. The fresh morning air and rising steam mingled together, wrapping everything in a sacred atmosphere. After showering, I eased myself into the artificial hot spring first. It uses 100% natural Aso water. The moment I sank in, a sound escaped me involuntarily. "Ahhh, this feels amazing — the best!" I said out loud to no one. Saying it aloud made it feel even better. Quite the energy for 6 in the morning.
With my body warmed up by the hot spring, I was ready. I stepped into the morning sauna. Morning is different from night. My body still seemed half asleep — the warmth crept in more slowly than it had the night before, and the sweat was slower to come. I could feel each dormant cell waking up one by one, gradually stirring into action. As my pulse rose, I felt a sense of here we go — a new day is beginning. Once I'd worked up a good sweat, I poured the original aroma water over the sauna stones. The sizzling sound was deeply satisfying. In the morning, my senses felt sharper somehow. The moment the steam rose, the scent of the aroma spread throughout the sauna. It smelled absolutely wonderful. I sat down nearby, closed my eyes, and let the heat wash over me.
After the sauna, I stepped into the cold plunge bath. I had noticed it the night before — next to the plunge bath sat a commercial freezer of the kind you'd find in a restaurant. Inside was a mountain of ice. You can scoop some in to lower the temperature of the water you're sitting in. Putting ice on top of your head is fun too. And above all, the soft quality of the groundwater felt incredible. Yuya Suizen Luxury Sauna & Spa is a wonderful facility where the quality of the water, the hospitality, and the spatial design all come together to soothe you completely.
After two sets of morning sauna, I settled into the lounge with detox water and tea. The luxurious Japanese-style space was irresistible. And I had it entirely to myself. I spent an elegantly unhurried morning there, losing track of time — I had left my phone in the room, so I had no idea what time it was. On this Kumamoto sauna trip, I didn't feel like a separate, isolated self. Rather, I felt like a part of nature and the space around me — or perhaps even merged with it. I found myself gaining a new kind of sensation, and the ability to lose track of time entirely. It felt as though my sensitivity as a human being had risen by a level.
Over breakfast, I thought about what to do before heading back to Kansai that day. My plan was to leave Kumamoto Station after noon, so I had the whole morning free. Where should I go? I didn't even need to think about it — the answer was already there. I'll go to Yurakkusu again today. I'd come all the way to Kumamoto, after all. If I could visit the place they call the sacred site of the west one more time, of course I would. Two days in a row at a legendary spot — how could that be anything but perfect?
When traveling, the number of places you visit matters, but I also believe there's real value in returning to the same place more than once to deepen the experience. Going back somewhere a second time reveals things you missed the first time, and can bring out an entirely different kind of feeling.
After relaxing in my room for a while, I checked out of the hotel and headed to Kumamoto Castle. The main keep, lost in the earthquake, had been magnificently restored, and the recovery felt palpable. I climbed all the way to the top and let myself be healed by the sweeping views of Mt. Aso and the city below. With the sightseeing done, it was finally time to head to Yurakkusu.
