That day, after a relaxing morning at Arima Onsen Taikono-yu, I had dozed off in the facility's reclining room. After a satisfying post-sauna meal, I surrendered to drowsiness without a fight and drifted off to sleep. When I woke up, it was around 3 p.m. The nap had done wonders for my energy. Where should I head next for a sauna? My mind was already working on that question. From Arima Onsen, both central Kobe and Osaka are easily accessible. I felt drawn to Osaka. One place came to mind: New Japan Umeda, the birthplace of the capsule hotel in Japan, and one of Osaka's finest saunas — the very setting of the drama Sa-do.
With my destination decided, I booked a hotel in Osaka, jumped in my car, and drove over from Arima. I arrived in about an hour. After checking in and stepping into my room, I was hit by a musty smell — apparently coming from the air conditioner. Must not have been cleaned. The unit bath smelled moldy too. A little off-putting, but this kind of thing isn't unusual on an unplanned sauna trip. I decided to forget about it. Five minutes after check-in, I was already in a taxi. "New Japan Umeda, please," I told the driver. We arrived in a few minutes. New Japan Umeda sits right in the middle of Umeda Higashi-dori, a street buzzing with izakayas and adult entertainment shops. I walked through the noise with a composed expression until the entrance finally came into view.
After checking in, I headed straight to the large bathing area. New Japan Umeda's baths span three floors, each equipped with a sauna and cold plunge bath. I started on the second floor, washing up at the shower area before moving on to the Finnish sauna on the same floor. The scent of vihta and wood filled the room — deeply soothing. I took a long, deep breath. The musty smell from the hotel felt instantly purged. I did a self-service löyly and settled into meditation. Lucky me — there was no one else there. I had the whole place to myself. The Finnish sauna really gets a good sweat going. When I hit my limit, I stepped out of the sauna room. Right next to it sat a cold plunge bath at 16°C. Perfect flow. I rinsed off and plunged in. An exquisite wave of refreshment washed over me. It felt so good I let out an involuntary sound. After the cold plunge, I sank into a reclining chair — just about ten steps from the bath. Another flawless layout. I closed my eyes and felt my consciousness beginning to drift. Arima Onsen in the morning, New Japan's sauna in the evening. What a blissful day. A guy about my age nearby gave me a suspicious look as I sat there grinning to myself, but I couldn't have cared less.
For my second set, I headed down to the first floor for the high-temperature sauna. A few minutes in, the auto-löyly kicked on. The steam rising from the sauna stones was wonderfully comforting, carrying a pleasant citrus aroma. I love the scent of vihta and wood, but I'm equally fond of the custom aroma waters each facility creates. Stepping out of the sauna, I was faced with a choice of two cold plunge baths: 14°C or 18°C. No hesitation — I chose 14°C. Water trickled down the wall of this bath, and I leaned back against it, letting it fall over me like a waterfall. The rush was incredible. Afterward, I made my way to the dedicated relaxation area — a poolside-like space lined with multiple chairs. Since it wasn't too crowded, I found a seat right away. I slowly closed my eyes and sat completely still for about five minutes.
For my final set, I moved up to the third floor to try the Finnish sauna cabin — but it was full. I'll save that for next time. So I went back down to the second floor and returned to the same Finnish sauna from my first set, wrapped again in the scent of vihta and wood. Once again, I had it all to myself. I did a self-service löyly and turned inward, focusing on my breath and feeling my heartbeat. I was nearing my limit. I rinsed off and slipped into the cold plunge. The heat drained from my body all at once. An overwhelming sense of refreshment enveloped me. New Japan Umeda — truly something else.
After the sauna, it was time for a good meal.
I moved to the lounge and looked over the menu — a perfect lineup for post-sauna dining. Everything looked good, honestly. After some deliberation, I ordered the Stamina Rice Bowl and the Miso Katsu. Both were outstanding. I chewed slowly with my eyes closed, nodding in satisfaction. I felt the pure joy of being alive. Even if someone told me my life would end in a minute, I could honestly say I had no complaints. That's how happy I was. The one small cloud on the horizon: I had to go back to that musty hotel afterward. Next time, I'm staying at New Japan. With that thought in mind, I hopped in a taxi and headed back.
