The night before, at Saffy Spa Maiko, I had been utterly undone by the cold plunge bath and sauna produced by the Sauna King himself — but a good night's sleep had fully restored my energy. Over breakfast, I started thinking about where to go. For some reason, all I wanted that morning was to sink slowly into a hot spring. That was the mood. Hot springs bubble up all across Japan, but if I was going to soak, I wanted the best Japan had to offer. And right there, easily accessible from central Kobe, was Arima Onsen. Among all of Arima's attractions, there exists a facility where you can enjoy both the famous "Kansen" (golden spring) and "Ginsen" (silver spring) at the same time. That place is Arima Onsen Taiko no Yu.
I arrived right at opening time, 10:00 a.m. At that hour, the crowds hadn't built up yet. The plan took shape naturally: a morning soak, a good meal, maybe a nap. I checked in and headed straight for the main bath. The moment I stepped into the bathing area, a powerful mineral scent filled the air. I immediately scanned the layout. The bathing area spans two floors — the indoor baths on the first floor, the outdoor baths on the second. It had everything: a free-flowing source spring bath, a mist sauna, a cold plunge bath, and a regular sauna. What genuinely surprised me was that even the cold plunge bath was a free-flowing source spring. I had never experienced anything like it — a cold bath fed entirely by natural spring water.
I quickly rinsed off and slipped into the blend of golden and silver spring water. The sensation hit me instantly — an overwhelming pleasure that swept through my entire body, draining every last bit of tension from my muscles by force. As I floated in that supreme state of relaxation, I gradually felt my body heating up. I could sense my pulse rising, just like when I'm sitting in a sauna. The abundant mineral content must have been absorbing through my skin and boosting circulation. I've visited many hot springs across Japan, but never before had simply soaking in the water sent my heart rate climbing like this. I skipped the sauna entirely and went straight to the cold plunge.
The free-flowing source spring cold plunge was around 18°C — remarkably gentle. Even though it was a cold bath, I felt like I could stay in it forever. I glanced to the side and noticed a man about my father's age, half-lost to the world. He must have reached totonou right there in the cold water — it was just that good. I completely understood. I myself was dangerously close to losing consciousness if I let my guard down. I climbed out of the cold plunge and made my way to the outdoor bath. Several reclining chairs were set out for relaxation, and I closed my eyes in the morning sunlight. Incredibly comfortable. I wouldn't mind drifting off right here. It's still morning, after all. With thoughts like that drifting through my head, I reached totonou on the very first set.
In the end, I only used the sauna once at Taiko no Yu. That's how extraordinary the hot springs were. Even without the sauna, my circulation surged the way it does inside one, and the free-flowing source spring cold plunge delivered both exhilaration and deep comfort. State-of-the-art sauna facilities have their own appeal, of course — but there's real value in a day spent simply, unhurriedly soaking in an onsen.
After the hot spring, I treated myself to sushi, tempura, and creative Japanese cuisine at Hanajuraku, a Japanese restaurant on the premises. As always, a meal after a hot spring is something else entirely. With my senses sharpened, the already-delicious Japanese food tasted even more extraordinary. Savoring truly good food is one of the greatest pleasures a person can experience. An absolutely perfect way to spend the time.
After the meal, I headed to the reclining room for a nap. Between the onsen and the food, drowsiness came on naturally and completely. There was no reason to fight it. I'd sleep as long as I pleased. I closed my eyes slowly. Where to go that evening — I could figure that out once I woke up.
