Before I knew it, I was standing right in front of the entrance.
Humans, as animals, become dependent on things that bring them supreme pleasure. Even when you tell yourself "this will be the last time," the moment you indulge, you end up repeating the same thing again. Gambling and drugs are the classic examples. But sauna and hot springs carry that same kind of dependency. Once you've experienced a truly transcendent totonou, it's all you can think about. I work as a systems engineer on weekdays, yet all I think about is getting into a sauna and a cold plunge bath. And before I know it, I'm standing in front of a hot spring facility. Arima Kaido Onsen Suzuran no Yu is one of those places that has me hooked.
On my last visit, I was amazed by the high quality of the hot springs, sauna, and cold plunge bath, and by the worldview of a garden built within a forest where you can become one with nature. Plenty of facilities stage nature by placing plants and wood indoors, but here you can experience real nature completely in the nude. You feel the wind, you listen to the sound of insects and the flow of the water, you slowly breathe in the scent of soil and trees. You close your eyes and sharpen all five senses. The fatigue and mental clutter accumulated from daily life disappear one by one. That's the kind of place this is.
Imagining the pleasure from last time, I almost let a grin slip onto my face — but one must always maintain a cool and gentlemanly composure. You can never let your guard down. The only time you're allowed to let your guard down is when you strip bare and step into the hot spring. I checked in with a composed expression and entered the main bath area. First, I cleansed myself with Miyamizu, the renowned famous water. Even the shower runs on natural spring water. The water from the showerhead is gentle. Soft. Simply rinsing off left me wrapped in a sense of happiness. After washing up, I eased into the indoor free-flowing hot spring. Why does Arima-style hot spring water feel so incredibly good? The instant I sank in, all the tension drained from my body and I felt weightless. The sheer comfort put a silly grin on my face. A man who looked to be around forty came in after me, soaked for a while, and then muttered to himself, "Ahh, this is the best!" I felt exactly the same. It's so good it makes you want to say it out loud.
Once my body had warmed up, I headed to the Finnish sauna in the outdoor area. At the entrance to the sauna there was a vihta. I gave my body a light whisk, savored the scent, and went in. The sauna allows self-service löyly, the humidity was high, and I worked up a satisfying sweat. And waiting just outside the sauna was an exquisite cold plunge bath blending Miyamizu with the hot spring source water. It's quite spacious, so there was no wait. I rinsed off the sweat and plunged in. What softness. It felt like the water was enveloping my entire body — something you absolutely cannot experience in a tap-water cold plunge bath. The water temperature was 17°C, just right for relaxing and soaking for as long as you like. A cold plunge bath like that is truly rare. And because it's blended with the source water, it doesn't just cool your body — the mineral components of the hot spring are absorbed through your skin as well. The double punch of Miyamizu minerals and source spring water — truly something to behold.
But it didn't end there. The finest outdoor air bath, where you become one with nature, was about to begin. Just outside the outdoor cold plunge bath, a few reclining chairs were set up. I was lucky enough to get one. I lay back and quietly closed my eyes. It being dusk, I could clearly hear the bell crickets singing. The wind from Rokko touched my skin, and when I focused my sense of smell, the scent of the forest drifted over me. I breathed in deeply the fragrance of trees and earth. I stayed in that reclining chair, in a state of totonou, for about ten minutes.
The first set alone left me so deeply satisfied that I wrapped up after just two sets that day. When I do sauna, I have no fixed rules. I generally aim for three sets, but sometimes it's two, sometimes five. I try not to fight against what my body and mood are telling me. Now then — after a supreme totonou, it was time for a delicious meal.
I already knew exactly where I was going.
A few minutes' drive from Arima Kaido Onsen Suzuran no Yu, heading toward the Minotani Junction, a restaurant sign came into view. Today, too, I'd be eating at Aoboen, a teishoku set-meal diner. Stepping inside, the place was lively. The regulars were drinking and watching a Hanshin Tigers game live on TV. I settled into the table across from them and ordered the ginger pork set meal. Personally, I love this place. The first time I walked in, the owner welcomed me warmly, and the food was absolutely delicious. It's easy to see why it has so many regulars. Both the food and the atmosphere make you think, I want to come back.
Before long, the ginger pork set meal arrived. A superb hot spring and sauna, followed by a delicious meal — I'm convinced this combination rivals any narcotic. The moment I took the first bite, I felt goosebumps rise all over my body. That's how good it was. As always, it filled me with a sense of gratitude.
Getting into a sauna and cold plunge bath feels wonderful in the moment, of course, but the happiness lingers long afterward. I felt grateful for everything — being able to enjoy a sauna, being able to eat delicious food, having discovered such a wonderful restaurant. I finished my set meal, settled the bill, and left the words, "That was delicious. I'll be back," as I walked out the door. I'd said the same words the last time too. It looks like I'll need to visit a few more times before the staff remember me, but I have a feeling that next visit will come soon enough. Thinking about that, I drove the car toward home in Shikoku. That was the end of this sauna trip.
